206 CHONOS ARCHIPELAGO. [CHAP. xm. 



December jpth. We anchored in a snug little cove at the foot of 

 some high hills, near the northern extremity of Tres Montes. After 

 breakfast the next morning, a party ascended one of these mountains, 

 which was 2,400 feet high. The scenery was remarkable. The chief 

 part of the range was composed of grand, solid, abrupt masses of granite, 

 which appeared as if they had been coeval with the beginning of the 

 world. The granite was capped with mica-slate, and this in the lapse 

 of ages had been worn into strange finger-shaped points. These two 

 formations, thus differing in their outlines, agree in being almost des- 

 titute of vegetation. This barrenness had to our eyes a strange appear- 

 ance, from having been so long accustomed to the sight of an almost 

 universal forest of dark green trees. I took much delight in examining 

 the structure of these mountains. The complicated and lofty ranges 

 bore a noble aspect of durability equally profitless, however, to man 

 and to all other animals. Granite to the geologist is classic ground : 

 from its widespread limits, and its beautiful and compact texture, few 

 rocks have been more anciently recognized. Granite has given rise, 

 perhaps, to more discussion concerning its origin than any other forma- 

 tion. We generally see it constituting the fundamental rock, and, 

 however formed, we know it is the deepest layer in the crust of this 

 globe to which man has penetrated. The limit of man's knowledge in 

 any subject possesses a high interest, which is perhaps increased by its 

 close neighbourhood to the realms of imagination. 



January ist, 1835. The new year is ushered in with the ceremonies 

 proper to it in these regions. She lays out no false hopes ; a heavy 

 north-western gale, with steady rain, bespeaks the rising year. Thank 

 God, we are not destined here to see the end of it, but hope then to 

 be in the Pacific Ocean, where a blue sky tells one there is a heaven, 

 a something beyond the clouds above our heads. 



The north-west winds prevailing for the next four days, we only 

 managed to cross a great bay, and then anchored in another secure 

 harbour. I accompanied the Captain in a boat to the head of a deep 

 creek. On the way the number of seals which we saw was quite 

 astonishing; every bit of flat rock, and parts of the beach, were 

 covered with them. They appeared to be of a loving disposition, and 

 lay huddled together, fast asleep, like so many pigs ; but even 

 pigs would have been ashamed of their dirt, and of the foul smell 

 which came from them. Each herd was watched by the patient 

 but inauspicious eyes of the turkey-buzzard. This disgusting bird, 

 with its bald scarlet head, formed to wallow in putridity, is very common 

 on the west coast, and their attendance on the seals shows on what 

 they rely for their food. We found the water (probably only that of the 

 surface) nearly fresh : this was caused by the number of torrents which, 

 in the form of cascades, came tumbling over the bold granite mountains 

 into the sea. The fresh water attracts the fish, and these bring many 

 terns, gulls, and two kinds of cormorant. We saw also a pair of the 

 beautiful black- necked swans, and several small sea-otters, the fur 

 of which is held in such high estimation. In returning, we were again 

 amused by the impetuous manner ip which the heap of seals, old and 



