312 CHILOE. [CHAP. xrv. 



light, to be thrown up and to fall down. The light was sufficient to 

 cast on the water a long bright reflection. Large masses of molten 

 matter seem very commonly to be cast out of the craters in this part 

 of the Cordillera. I was assured that when the Corcovado is in eruption, 

 great masses are projected upwards and are seen to burst in the air, 

 assuming many fantastical forms, such as trees: their size must be 

 immense, for they can be distinguished from the high land behind 

 San Carlos, which is no less than ninety-three miles from the Corcovado. 

 In the morning the volcano became tranquil. 



I was surprised at hearing afterwards that Aconcagua in Chile, 

 480 miles northwards, was in action on this same night; and still 

 more surprised to hear, that the great eruption of Coseguina (2,700 

 miles north of Aconcagua), accompanied by an earthquake felt over 

 a 1,000 miles, also occurred within six hours of this same time. This 

 coincidence is the more remarkable, as Coseguina had been dormant 

 for twenty-six years ; and Aconcagua most rarely shows any signs of 

 action. It is difficult even to conjecture, whether this coincidence 

 was accidental, or shows some subterranean connection. If Vesuvius, 

 Etna, and Hecla in Iceland (all three relatively nearer each other, 

 than the corresponding points in South America) suddenly burst forth 

 in eruption on the same night, the coincidence would be thought re- 

 markable ; but it is far more remarkable in this case, where the three 

 vents fall on the same great mountain-chain, and where the vast plains 

 along the entire eastern coast, and the upraised recent shells along 

 more than 2,000 miles on the western coast, show in how equable and 

 connected a manner the elevatory forces have acted. 



Captain Fitz Roy being anxious that some bearings should be taken 

 on the outer coast of Chiloe, it was planned that Mr. King and myself 

 should ride to Castro, and thence across the island to the Capella 

 de Cucao, situated on the west coast. Having hired horses and a 

 guide, we set out on the morning of the 22nd. We had not proceeded 

 far, before we were joined by a woman and two boys, who were bent 

 on the same journey. Every one on this road acts on a " hail fellow 

 well met fashion;" and one may here enjoy the privilege, so rare 

 in South America, of travelling without firearms. At first, the country 

 consisted of a succession of hills and valleys : nearer to Castro it 

 became very level. The road itself is a curious affair ; it consists in 

 its whole length, with the exception of very few parts, of great logs 

 of wood, which are either broad and laid longitudinally, or narrow and 

 placed transversely. In summer the road is not very bad ; but in 

 winter, when the wood is rendered slippery from rain, travelling is 

 exceedingly difficult. At that time of the year, the ground on each 

 side becomes a morass, and is often overflowed : hence it is necessary 

 that the longitudinal logs should be fastened down by transverse 

 poles, which are pegged on each side into the earth. These pegs 

 render a fall from a horse dangerous ; as the chance of alighting on 

 one of them is not small. It is remarkable, however, how active 

 custom has made the Chilotan horses. In crossing bad parts, where 

 the logs had been displaced, they skipped from one to the other, 



