183$.] CHILOE. aij 



almost with the quickness and certainly of a dog. On both hands 

 the road is bordered by the lofty forest-trees, with their bases matted 

 together by canes. When occasionally a long reach of this avenue 

 could be beheld, it presented a curious scene of uniformity ; the white 

 line of logs, narrowing in perspective, became hidden by the gloomy 

 forest, or terminated in a zigzag which ascended some steep hill. 



Although the distance from San Carlos to Castro is only twelve leagues 

 in a straight line, the formation of the road must have been a great 

 labour. I was told that several people had formerly lost their lives ia 

 attempting to cross the forest. The first who succeeded was an Indian, 

 who cut his way through the canes in eight days, and reached San Carlos ; 

 he was rewarded by the Spanish government with a grant of land. 

 During the summer, many of the Indians wander about the forests (but 

 chiefly in the higher parts, where the woods are not quite so thick), in 

 search of the half-wild cattle which live on the leaves of the cane and 

 certain trees. It was one of these huntsmen who by chance discovered, 

 a few years since, an English vessel, which had been wrecked on the 

 outer coast. The crew were beginning to fail in provisions, and it is 

 not probable that, without the aid of this man, they would ever have 

 extricated themselves from these scarcely penetrable woods. As it is, 

 one seaman died on the march from fatigue. The Indians in these 

 excursions steer by the sun ; so that if there is a continuance of cloudy 

 weather they cannot travel. 



The day was beautiful, and the number of trees which were in full 

 flower perfumed the air ; yet even this could hardly dissipate the effect 

 of the gloomy dampness of the forest. Moreover, the many dead trunks 

 that stand like skeletons, never fail to give to these primeval woods a 

 character of solemnity, absent in those of countries long civilized. 

 Shortly after sunset we bivouacked for the night. Our female corn- 

 panion, who was rather good-looking, belonged to one of the most 

 respectable families in Castro ; she rode, however, astride, and without 

 shoes or stockings. I was surprised at the total want of pride shown 

 by her and her brother. They brought food with them, but at all our 

 meals sat watching Mr. King and myself whilst eating, till we were 

 fairly shamed into feeding the whole party. The night was cloudless ; 

 and while lying in our beds, we enjoyed the sight (and it is a high 

 enjoyment) of the multitude of stars which illumined the darkness of 

 the forest. 



January 2yd. We rose early in the morning, and reached the 

 pretty quiet town of Castro by two o'clock. The old governor had died 

 since our last visit, and a Chileno was acting in his place. We had a 

 letter of introduction to Don Pedro, whom we found exceedingly 

 hospitable and kind, and more disinterested than is usual on this side 

 of the continent. The next day Don Pedro procured us fresh horses, 

 and offered to accompany us himself. We proceeded to the south 

 generally following the coast, and passing through several hamlets, each 

 with its large barn-like chapel built of wood. At Vilipilli, Don Pedro 

 asked the commandant to give us a guide to Cucao. The old gentle- 

 man offered to come himself; but for a long time nothing would 



