BAY OF ISLANDS. 303 



next morning, made a perfect conclusion to this very remarkable scene 

 of loyalty and good feeling. 



After the main discussion was ended, several of the chiefs took the 

 opportunity of asking Captain Fitz Roy many intelligent questions on 

 international customs and laws, relating to the treatment of ships and 

 foreigners. On some points, as soon as the decision was made, th 

 law was issued verbally on the spot. This Tahitian parliament lasted 

 for several hours; and when it was over Captain Fitz Roy invited 

 Queen Pomare to pay the Beagle a visit. 



November 2$th. In the evening four boats were sent for her majesty ; 

 the ship was dressed with flags, and the yards manned on her coming 

 on board. She was accompanied by most of the chiefs. The behaviour 

 of all was very proper: they begged for nothing, and seemed much 

 pleased with Captain Fitz Roy's presents. The Queen is a large 

 awkward woman, without any beauty, grace, or dignity. She has only 

 one royal attribute ; a perfect immovability of expression under all 

 circumstances, and that rather a sullen one. The rockets were most 

 admired ; and a deep " Oh ! " could be heard from the shore, all round 

 the dark bay, after each explosion. The sailors' songs were also much 

 admired; and the Queen said she thought that one of the most 

 boisterous ones certainly could not be a hymn 1 The royal party did 

 not return on shore till past midnight. 



November z6t/i. In the evening, with a gentle land-breeze, a course 

 was steered for New Zealand ; and as the sun set, we had a farewell 

 view of the mountains of Tahiti the island to which every voyager has 

 offered up his tribute of admiration. 



December igth. In the evening we saw in the distance New 

 Zealand. We may now consider that we have nearly crossed the 

 Pacific. It is necessary to sail over this great ocean to comprehend 

 its immensity. Moving quickly onwards for weeks together,' we meet 

 with nothing but the same blue, profoundly deep, ocean. Even within 

 the archipelagoes, the islands are mere specks, and far distant one 

 from the other. Accustomed to look at maps drawn on a small scale, 

 where dots, shading, and names are crowded together, we do not 

 rightly judge how infinitely small the proportion of dry land is to the 

 water of this vast expanse. The meridian of the Antipodes has like- 

 wise been passed ; and now every league, it made us happy to think, 

 was one league nearer to England. These Antipodes call to one's 

 mind old recollections of childish doubt and wonder. Only the other 

 day I looked forward to this airy barrier as a definite point in our 

 voyage homewards; but now I find it, and all such resting-places 

 for the imagination, are like shadows, which a man moving onwards 

 cannot catch. A gale of wind lasting for some days, has lately given 

 us full leisure to measure the future stages in our long homeward 

 voyage, and to wish most earnestly for its termination. 



December list. Early in the morning we entered the Bay of Islands, 

 and being becalmed for some hours near the mouth, we did not reach 

 the anchorage till the middle of the day. The country is hilly, with a 

 smooth outline, and is deeply intersected by numerous arms of the 



