334 KEELING ISLAND. [CHAP, xx, 



selves so delicious, that they almost equal those dearer ones at home, 

 to which we are bound by each best feeling of the mind. 



The next day I employed myself in examining the very interesting, 

 yet simple structure and origin of these islands. The water being 

 unusually smooth, I waded over the outer flat of dead rock as far as 

 the living mounds of coral, on which the swell of the open sea breaks. 

 In sorrie of the gullies and hollows there were beautiful green and 

 other coloured fishes, and the forms and tints of many of the zoophytes 

 were admirable. It is excusable to grow enthusiastic over the infinite 

 numbers of organic beings with which the sea of the tropics, so prodigal 

 of life, teems : yet I must confess I think those naturalists who have 

 described, in well-known words, the submarine grottoes decked with 

 a thousand beauties, have indulged in rather exuberant language. 



April 6th. I accompanied Captain Fitz Roy to an island at the head 

 of the lagoon: the channel was exceedingly intricate, winding through 

 fields of delicately branched corals. We saw several turtle, and two 

 boats were then employed in catching them. The water was so clear 

 and shallow, that although at first a turtle quickly dives out of sight, 

 yet in a canoe or boat under sail, the pursuers after no rery long chase 

 come up to it. A man standing ready in the bow, at this moment 

 dashes through the water upon the turtle's back; then clinging with 

 both hands by the shell of its neck, he is carried away till the animal 

 becomes exhausted and is secured. It was quite an interesting chase 

 to see the two boats thus doubling about, and the men dashing head 

 foremost into the water trying to seize their prey. Captain Moresby 

 informs me that in the Chagos Archipelago in this same ocean, the 

 natives, by a horrible process, take the shell from the back of the 

 living turtle. " It is covered with burning charcoal, which causes the 

 outer shell to curl upwards; it is then forced off with a knife, and 

 before it becomes cold flattened between boards. After this barbarous 

 process the animal is suffered to regain its native element, where, after 

 a certain time, a new shell is formed; it is, however, too thin to be 

 of any service, and the animal always appears languishing and sickly." 



When we arrived at the head of the lagoon, we crossed a narrow 

 islet, and found a great surf breaking on the windward coast. I can 

 hardly explain the reason, but there is to my mind much grandeur in 

 the view of the outer shores of these lagoon-islands. There is a 

 simplicity in the barrier-like beach, the margin of green bushes and 

 tall cocoa-nuts, the solid flat of dead coral-rock, strewed here and there 

 with great loose fragments, and the line of furious breakers, all round- 

 ing away towards either hand. The ocean throwing its waters over 

 the broad reef appears an invincible, all-powerful enemy ; yet we see 

 it resisted, and even conquered, by means which at first seem most 

 weak and inefficient. It is not that the ocean spares the rock of coral ; 

 the great fragments scattered over the reef, and heaped on the beach, 

 whence the tall cocoa-nut springs, plainly bespeak the unrelenting 

 power of the waves. Nor are any periods of repose granted. The 

 long swell caused by the gentle but steady action of the trade wind, 

 always blowing in one direction over a wide area, causes breakers, 



