35 MAURITIUS [CHAP. xxi. 



of the island equalled the expectations raised by the many well-known 

 descriptions of its beautiful scenery. The sloping plain of the Pample- 

 mousses, interspersed with houses, and coloured by the large fields of 

 sugar-cane of a bright green, composed the foreground. The brilliancy 

 of the green was the more remarkable, because it is a colour which 

 generally is conspicuous only from a very short distance. Towards 

 the centre of the islainl groups of wooded mountains rose out of this 

 highly-cultivated plain ; their summits, as so commonly happens with 

 ancient volcanic rocks, being jagged into the sharpest points. Masses 

 of white clouds were collected around these pinnacles, as if for the 

 sake of pleasing the st lunger's eye. The whole island, with its sloping 

 border and central mountains, was adorned with an air of perfect 

 elegance : the scenery, if I may use such an expression, appeared to 

 the sight harmonious. 



I spent the greater ]>art of the next day in walking about the town, 

 and visiting different people. The town is of considerable size, and 

 is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants ; the streets are very clean and 

 regular. Although the island has been so many years under the 

 English government, the general character of the place is quite French : 

 Englishmen speak to their servants in French, and the shops are all 

 French ; indeed I should think that Calais or Boulogne was much more 

 Anglified. There is a very pretty little theatre, in which operas are 

 excellently performed. We were also surprised at seeing large book- 

 sellers' shops, with well -stored shelves ; music and reading bespeak 

 our approach to the old world of civilization ; for in truth both Australia 

 and America are new v\ orlds. 



The various races of men walking in the streets afford the most 

 interesting spectacle hi Port Louis. Convicts from India are banished 

 here for life; at present there are about 800, and they are employed 

 in various public woi Us. Before seeing these people, I had no idea 

 that the inhabitants ul India were such noble-looking figures. Their 

 skin is extremely dark, and many of the older men had large moustaches 

 and beards of a snow \vhite colour ; this, together with the fire of their 

 expression, gave them quite an imposing aspect. The greater number 

 had been banished foi murder and the worst crimes ; others for causes 

 which can scarcely be considered as moral faults, such as for not obey- 

 ing, from superstitious motives, the English laws. These men are 

 generally quiet and well conducted ; from their outward conduct, their 

 cleanliness, and faithful observance of their strange religious rites, it 

 was impossible to look at them with the same eyes as on our wretched 

 convicts in New South Wales. 



May ist. Sunday. 1 took a quiet walk along the sea-coast to the 

 north of the town. 'Hie plain in this part is quite uncultivated; it 

 consists of a field of black lava, smoothed over with coarse grass and 

 bushes, the latter being chiefly Mimosas. The scenery may be described 

 as intermediate in character between that of the Galapagos and of 

 Tahiti ; but this will convey a definite idea to very few persons. It is 

 a very pleasant country, but it has not the charms of Tahiti, or the 

 grandeur of Brazil. The next day I ascended La Pouce, a mountain 



