HOW TO HAVE SUCCESS WITH ROSES 



inches deep and a foot or more wide. Be sure that the bud or 

 graft is two inches below the soil, or else you may have trouble 

 with suckers. Water thoroughly when planted, and if the 

 weather be dry the ground should be kept moist for some time 

 after planting. If you dislike the look of the brown earth 

 carpet the beds with Viola cornuta or with pansies. 



Pruning comes next, and in rose-growing is very important. 

 It is one of the first things that a rose-grower must learn if 

 she would, have roses in abundance. Single roses may for the 

 most part be treated as plain "shrubs" and require little or 

 no pruning, but garden-roses, the Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals, 

 these require careful and intelligent pruning and plenty of it. 



ROSE ENEMIES AND How TO MEET THEM 



This brief list of possible evils need not terrify an amateur. 

 Forewarned is forearmed. The possible diseases of children 

 make a large volume, but few parents are afraid to try raising 

 them on that account. Strong, healthy rose-plants are not 

 liable to be afflicted, and rose enemies are like other evils 

 if nipped in the bud little damage is done, and roses are well 

 worth the bit of watchfulness they entail. 



Rose-Beetle. Probably the first insect whose acquaintance 

 the rose-grower makes is the rose-beetle or "rose-bug," which 

 sometimes comes in hordes like the Egyptian locusts. The 

 only sure way of vanquishing this enemy is the primitive 

 method of "hand-picking" or jarring off the insects into a 

 pan of kerosene. For this work the early morning is the best, 

 for then the insects are more stupid and inert than ever. Most 

 remedies that kill the beetles kill the roses also. 



Black Spot. This is a fungous disease, apt to appear late 

 in the season, and usually confined to Hybrid Perpetual 

 Roses; Teas are rarely afflicted with it. The black spots are 



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