COTTON GOODS. 15 



h.ivp competition in lU'ig-hboui'ing- mills. ;is well ;is in thr Muscow districts. Tlicu. to 

 tiie manufacture of |)rinte(l fustians was added that of printed cotton doth, or 

 huckskin. which at once found a good sale amongst the poorer classes, displacing 

 similar goods made from woid. In the manufacture of such goods, Nos. 14 to :^'> twist 

 and Nos. 2 to 8 weft are used. These tissues are very heavy, a piece of iinliliMchcd 

 fustian 50 arshines long and 1 arshine wide weighing aliout half a pond. ;inil ;ilso very 

 dear considering the material contained in them. 



With a view to reducing the cost in the fabrication of these goods the 

 manufacturers use weft made from all kinds of cheap materials, namely: the 

 waste and droppings which result during the processes of scutching, carding and 

 spinning, and which are of such short and unequal staple, that their further 

 use for spinning into yarns, with the ordinary assortment of cotton spinning 

 machinery, is rendered either unprofitable or quite impossible. With the adojition 

 of an assortment of machinery, the same as is used for shoddy, for the working up 

 of this raw material, it is possible to produce a cheap waste yarn quite suitable for 

 weft, for fustians and buckskins, but especially for fustians. As this texture passes 

 through a process of raising, a better nap is formed when weft is used prepared in 

 the before-mentioned manner. Thus, the fabrication of heavy printed goods caused a 

 special manufacture of weft yarn from waste, in the making of which large manufac- 

 tories, as well as special waste-spinning mills, are occupied. This industry spread so 

 rapidly soon after its appearance, that there was an insufficiency in the amount of 

 cotton waste, which at lirst was supplied solely by local cotton spinning mills. This 

 waste, consisting of willow, clearer, roller, dotfer and cylinder strips, was then imported 

 from England, where it is of little value. With the tariff of 1891 the importation of 

 cotton waste was made very difficult, and this circumstance compelled the manufacturers 

 to use low classes of cotton mixed with the waste from local cotton mills for the pro- 

 duction of waste yarn. 



With the cotton-spinning industry should be coupled the manufacture of vigone 

 yarns, which are made from a mixture of dyed cotton, most frequently black and Ijrown, 

 and wool, in which mixture the amount of wool varies from 2 to 10 per cent. The 

 cheaper kinds are made from a mixture of dyed and undyed cotton, or in place of the 

 latter, bleached flax waste is substituted. The manufacture of vigone yarns was first 

 commenced in Verdan and Crimmitzschau in Saxony, whence it was brought into liussia 

 in 1879, when at the close of the Tiu'kish war several of the Saxon manufacturers 

 transferred the new industry to the Polish manufacturing regions. Vigone yarns are 

 made on exactly the same class of spinning machines as those used in the manu- 

 facture of woollen yarns. As regards the construction and size of vigone mills, they 

 are in every respect the same as those for woollen manufacture and are of no consid- 

 erable dimensions. Taking these facts into consideration it was an easy matter during 

 the depression in the woollen trade for several manufacturers to convert their mills 

 into those for the spinning of vigone yarns. 



Cost of r k o d u c t i o n of cotton manufactures. 



The cost of production of cotton yarns of medium numbers in Russia is from 

 9 to 12 kopecks per count per pond, so that the cost of production of one pond of 



