LEATHER GOODS. 95 



1 . liussia leather. 



This article is prepared from all the above mentioned raw materials except calf- 

 skins. After washing- and scraping, the hides are treated with ash. then washed, passed 

 through the stamping mill, pared, pressed, tanned in weak liquor and then in ooze, 

 and by sprinkling; it is eitlicr white, red or black. The best hides are used for the 

 white leather which, when tanned, is smeared on the flesh side with a mixture of 

 birch tar and seal grease. 



The red Eussia leather is prepared in the same way, but when dried is coated 

 with a solution of alum and dyed with red sandalwood. The black leather is dyed 

 after tanning with some salts of iron and then smeared on the flesh side with a 

 mixture of birch tar and calf grease. This smearing- is repeated, if the so-called 

 tarred Eussia leather is required. All this class of goods undergoes various finishing 

 processes to give the requisite appearance. These finishing operations are fre- 

 quently repeated several times ; the dried hides are softened, kneaded, pared with a 

 paring knife, stuffed and rolled upon grained boards to impart a given design to 

 their surface, either fine or coarse shagreen, striped or fancy patterns ; if however 

 a smooth or polished surface is required the face is rubbed with glass or stone. 

 When finished the hide is slightly greased with seal grease or tallow. Black tarred 

 goods are smeared Avith a mixture of tar and grease. Smooth or small grained white 

 Eussia leather is principally used for soldiers boots and cartridge pouches, trunks 

 and bags. Eed grained Eussia leather is sold in Asia and also exported in considerable 

 quantities to western Europe, where it is much prized by foreigners who call it 

 Eussia leather and use it for making a variety of small articles, such as purses and 

 cigar cases, for which Vienna is particularly famed. Black Eussia leather is dressed 

 smooth or grained and is used by harness makers, trunk makers, coach builders, and 

 also for making ordinary boots and shoes. 



2. Dressed calf leather and calfskins. 



Both these varieties are used for making light boots and shoes and numerous 

 other articles. The raw material in both cases is the hide of young calves, and 

 the processes of manufacture are the same as those of Eussia leather, the only 

 changes being those necessitated by the smaller size of the hides. Calfskin is made 

 from the hide of milk calves and is easily recognized by the colour of the flesh 

 side ; it is tender, soft, flexible and strong, and is therefore more valued than ordinary 

 calf leather; much of it is sent abroad. 



3. Horse hides. 



The rump part of large horse hides is close and hard and is used for sole 

 leather. The smaller hides are used for making white and black Eussia leather, 

 known as Hamburg leather. The hides of milk stallions are used instead of calf- 

 skins. The manufacturing processes are the same as those of Eussia leather and 

 calfskin. Horse hides are not so highly prized as those of horned cattle. Different 

 kinds of leather are also made from goatskins, sheepskins and lambskins, the following 

 being the principal varieties. 



