XIII . THROUGH LAIKIPIA 155 



Next day as we approached Rumiiruti we were 

 met by a fine-looking native who turned out to be 

 the Masai chief Masekondi. The European official 

 in charge of the Masai on Laikipia issues his 

 instructions principally through this chief, and holds 

 him more or less responsible for the good conduct 

 of the tribe. When I explained to Masel^ondi how 

 we had been treated the previous day by one of his 

 Headmen, he was so angry with his inhospitable and 

 discourteous conduct that he at once sent back a 

 party of warriors to collect a fine of five sheep, 

 which he inflicted on the old curmudgeon as a 

 punishment for his churlishness. 



Meanwhile we pushed on and arrived at Rumuruti, 

 which is a small Government station, situated at the 

 southernmost end of what is known as the Pes ^ 

 Swamp. This is an expansion of the Guaso Narok 

 or Black River, and extends for about fourteen 

 miles along its course, with a width in some places 

 of a mile or more. 



I was much disappointed to find that no donkeys 

 had yet arrived for me from Baringo, so I at once 

 despatched Munyakai bin Diwani to that place to 

 purchase and bring me fifty with as little delay as 

 possible. 



Some time before I left Nairobi I had requested 

 the District Gommissloner of Laikipia to procure 



' Pronounced /rCft'. 



