Gladiolus 



but that which suits them best is a good medium, friable loam with 

 a cool rich subsoil, and each one must decide for himself how far 

 this is within reach naturally, or can be secured by resources at 

 command. Thus, a light soil may be made suitable by placing a 

 layer of rotten cow- manure a foot below the surface, and a heavy, 

 retentive loam can be reduced to the proper state by the admixture of 

 lighter material. Spread a thick layer of manure and dig it in, leaving 

 the soil in a rough state to be disintegrated by frosts. Before the 

 planting time arrives it is worth some trouble to free the ground 

 from wireworms, or they will play havoc with the growth just as it is 

 appearing above ground. Potatoes serve admirably as traps for these 

 pests. 



Gladioli are peculiarly liable to injury from wind, so that a 

 sheltered, but not a shaded, position should, if possible, be chosen 

 for them. The time of planting depends partly on the district, 

 partly on the season; but the soil must be in suitable condition, 

 and fine weather is necessary. From the middle of March to the 

 middle of April should afford some suitable opportunity of getting 

 the bulbs in satisfactorily. Give the land a light forking, not 

 deep enough to bring up the manure, and make the surface level. 

 The rows may be twelve or eighteen inches apart ; we prefer the 

 greater distance, because of the convenience it affords in attending 

 to the plants when growing; nine inches is sufficient space in the 

 rows. 



There are two methods of putting in the bulbs, each of which has 

 advocates among practised growers. One is to take out the soil with 

 a trowel to the depth of six or seven inches for each corm, then 

 insert about two inches of mixed sand and powdered charcoal or 

 wood ashes ; lay the root upon it, and carefully cover with fine soil. 

 If that process is considered too tedious, draw a deep drill with a hoe, 

 and at the bottom put the light mixture already named ; place the 

 roots at regular distances upon it, and lightly return the top soil. 

 The operation should be so performed as to leave the crown of the 

 corm four inches below the surface. When planting is completed, 

 give the bed a finishing touch, with the rake. 



An eminent grower strips off the outer coat or skin of each bulb 

 before planting to ascertain that there is no disease ; and this cannot 

 otherwise be discovered. No doubt the procedure prevents the bed 

 from showing blanks, but that object can be more safely attained by 

 growing a reserve in pots. There is, however, another practice which 

 possesses very decided advantages, and it is to break the skin at the 



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