18 The Custard Apple in Queensland. 



planted. The bark is softened, any bruises that the stem may have 

 received in transplanting give rise to rot, and sometimes the rot starts at 

 the graft where that is under the surface of the soil, whereas bruises heal 

 more readily if above ground and exposed to light and air, the bark 

 remains hard and healthy, and there is generally no tendency to rot from 

 the graft. A hole should be dug of a size suitable to the roots of the 

 young tree. The soil should be well pulverised, and the roots should be 

 gradually and firmly covered by it. In dry weather, before completely 

 filling the hole, a bucket of water should be poured round the tree, and 

 after it has soaked down to the roots the remainder of the soil may be 

 levelled over. 



A stout stake should be driven in alongside the newly-planted tree,, 

 to which it should then be tied. 



LATER CULTIVATION 



will consist in keeping down weeds, and after the first six years the soil 

 should receive a dressing of manure. This should be ploughed in during 

 the winter months at the end of the seventh year after planting. The 

 plough should not go nearer the tree than about the spread of the 

 branches. After about another three years' interval another similar 

 dressing should be given. If the soil is poor, manure may be required 

 every year in order to yield satisfactory crops. If the soil is rich, or 

 manured with meatworks or other nitrogenous fertilisers previous to 

 planting, there is a likelihood of the trees throwing too many strong- 

 sappy growths, and they are not likely to fruit so well. Xo manure- 

 should be given except the original deep ploughing-in of bones in sub- 

 soiling until the trees throw their first crop of fruit. Manuring will 

 depend largely on the nature of the soil. To keep down w r eeds and 

 maintain the soil moisture, the scarifier with side sweeps may be run over 

 the soil to stir it to a depth of 2 in. or 3 in. 



PRUNING. 



Pruning demands careful attention. For the first four or five years 

 the grower should aim at getting a tree of a good shape and having the- 

 branches well distributed. The Mammoth is naturally a straggly tree r 

 and pruning will be required to correct this habit of growth. As regards 

 the general appearance of a well-pruned tree, reference should be made 

 to frontispiece, showing a model-shaped tree as grown by James Collins at 

 Redland Bay. In the first two or three years, in the month of September, 

 or when the leaves show signs of dropping, all long sappy growths 

 should be trimmed, except where they should be cut right out i.e., 

 where they are in the wrong position running through centre of 

 tree. They should never be cut hard back, but about half the shoot 

 should remain and the lateral-growing branches should be encouraged. 

 In some instances i.e., with shoots about 3 ft. long 1 ft. should be 

 cut off the point, cutting back to near a bud which is likely to produce 

 a branch in a desirable position. An open centre should be aimed at 

 in a tree at this age. Later, as the tree gets older, a canopy of branches. 



