72 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 



The pots should have a few crocks placed in the bottom, 

 with a layer of some loose material such as the rougher 

 part of the compost, to prevent the fine soil working down 

 between the crocks and interfering with the escape of the 

 surplus water. Generally speaking the roots will be too 

 large to admit of their being put into pots of the size men- 

 tioned without being previously reduced. To effect the 

 necessary reduction shorten the tubers to about one-half 

 their length by a cut made at right angles and leave them 

 fully exposed in the greenhouse or frame for two or three 

 days to give time for the cut ends to become dry before pro- 

 ceeding to put them in pots. In carrying out the last-named 

 detail use turfy loam to which decayed stable manure has 

 been added in the proportion of one part to each five parts 

 of loam. If manure of the description mentioned is not 

 available, use instead bone meal at the rate of one 5-inch 

 flowerpotful to a bushel of soil. Should it be desired to 

 increase the stock beyond the number of tubers available, 

 turn the plants out of the pots when the young shoots are 

 about 3 inches long and divide them into two or three portions, 

 preferably two, and then put them into 6-inch pots. Some 

 trouble may be saved without any accompanying disadvan- 

 tage by starting the tubers that are to be divided in shallow 

 boxes with any light soil that may be available packed about 

 them. When so started they can on the shoots reaching 

 the length mentioned be lifted out of the box, divided, and 

 put into pots 6 inches in diameter. The tubers must be 

 shortened before they are put into the boxes, and a compost 

 similar to that already advised be used. Provided the soil 

 be moderately moist when the tubers are potted or boxed, 

 very little water will be required except an occasional 



