338 RHODODENDRON 



them, and in smaller ones they may be planted in beds or broad 

 groups. 



Soil. The best possible soil for these shrubs is one of a peaty nature. 

 The great rhododendron nurseries are on peaty formations. But this is 

 by no means absolutely necessary. A sweet, well-drained loam, especi- 

 ally if it be of a sandy nature and free from calcareous matter, does 

 almost as well, especially if a good proportion of decayed leaves be 

 incorporated with it. Even a heavy loam treated in the same way will 

 suit the stronger growing sorts. Rhododendrons as a whole abhor lime, 

 R. hirsutum and some of its hybrids, which are found in the Alps on a 

 limestone formation, being the only exceptions. They are all moisture- 

 loving, and delight in a continuously cool damp condition at the root. 

 For plants whose roots are riot shaded by their own lower branches, a. 

 surface mulching of 4 to 6 ins. of leaves is very beneficial, especially in 

 hot weather. If the soil be poor, a proportion of one-third well-rotted 

 manure may be added to the mulch. It may be said that no one item' 

 in the cultivation of rhododendrons tends so much to success as the 

 abundance of decayed leaves in and on the soil. 



Removal of Flowers. Wherever time and opportunity allow, the 

 flowers of all rhododendrons and azaleas should be removed as soon as 

 they have faded. The truss will usually break off in one piece between 

 thumb and finger. Most of them are prolific seed-bearers, and the 

 development of the seed-vessel is very detrimental to the progress of 

 the young growths and the next year's crop of blossom. Even in the 

 great trade establishments where the plants are numbered by tens of 

 thousands the managers find it worth while to have the old flowers 

 religiously removed. 



Propagation. Whilst most of these plants are increased by grafting, 

 the processes of seed-sowing, layering, and propagation by cuttings may 

 be largely adopted. The common garden varieties of the true evergreen 

 group, especially those with large leaves, are extremely difficult to increase 

 by cuttings, and are -mostly grafted on seedlings of R. ponticum, but in 

 consequence of the x continual watch that has to be kept for suckers from 

 the stock, the practice of layering and thus getting them on their own 

 roots is coming into vogue. Owing to the longer time necessary to obtain 

 layered plants, the prices of plants so raised have to be higher. The 

 species of the lepidote (or scaly), smaller-leaved group, such as yunna- 

 nense, racemosum, and concinnum, can quite easily be increased by 

 cuttings made in July or August of the shoots of the year, with a " heel " 

 of old wood attached, and placed in gentle heat. 



The named varieties of azalea are mainly propagated by grafting on 

 seedlings of R. flavum. All the species and varieties whose branches 

 can be brought to the ground will take root by layering, and all or nearly 

 all can be increased by cuttings. Small shoots with a "heel" should be 

 taken, 2 or 3 ins. long, when the wood is getting fairly firm which will 

 usually be about the end of July. They should be dibbled firmly in well- 

 drained pots of sand and peat in about equal parts, and when they are 

 all put in, the surface should be covered with -J in. of sand. A gentle 

 bottom heat is desirable, and the cuttings may be covered with a bell- 



