TYPES AND MARKET CLASSES OF LIVE STOCK 259 



appearance of the thread, while in worsteds the threads are plainly 

 evident. Woolens usually have a fuzzy, downy surface, while 

 worsteds have a smooth, hard finish. Worsteds hold their shape 

 better than woolens. Worsted cloths have a more clearly 

 defined pattern and more firmly woven appearance than woolens. 

 Woolen cloths are softer and the various colors are not so dis- 

 tinct in the cloth. The principal worsted cloth is Serge, while 

 woolens include several leading varieties such as Tweeds, Chev- 

 iots, and Broadcloths. The manufacture of woolen underwear 

 is also essentially a woolen process. 



Shoddy, obtained by tearing up woolen rags by machinery, 

 now enters into the composition of all except the very finest 

 woolen yarns, but cannot be used in the manufacture of worsted 

 yarn under the Bradford or English system. However, a vary- 

 ing proportion of cotton threads are often woven into worsted 

 cloth. 



Worsteds may be dyed in the top, the yarn, or the cloth. 

 Woolens may be dyed in the wool, the yarn, or the cloth. 



Pounds of wool per pound of cloth. For woolen goods, 

 from 3 to 4.64 pounds of grease wool, with an average of 3.73 

 pounds, are required to make 1 pound of cloth. The average 

 amount of scoured wool required is 1.37 pounds. For worsted 

 cloths, from 2.56 pounds to 4.55 pounds of grease wool is re- 

 quired, with an average of 3.66 pounds. The average amount 

 of scoured wool for 1 pound of worsted cloth is 1.55 pounds.* 



Classification of wools. Wools may be classified according 

 to their origin and also according to their value and adaptability 

 for different uses. The classifications in common use in this 

 country are as follows: 



Clipped wools and pulled wools. The first distinction made 

 in wools is to divide them into fleece or clipped wools and pulled 

 wools. The former are the ordinary clipped wools coming to 

 market in separate fleeces. These are the more valuable and 

 constitute by far the greater portion of the wool of commerce. 

 Pulled wools are those derived from the pelts of slaughtered 

 sheep in the manner described later on. They are marketed 

 in 500-pound bales. Pulled wools constitute about one-seventh 

 of all the wool produced in the United States. 



Domestic, territory, and carpet wools. Domestic wools 

 are wools coming from the small farm flocks east of the Missouri 



U. S. Dept. Agr. Bui. 206, by F. R. Marshall and L. L. Heller. 



