72 SERGIUS GRATA. [CHAP. in. 



were not at all unusual. Sixty pounds we can ascertain as 

 being given for a single mullet, and more than three times 

 that sum for a dish of that fish ; and enormous sums of money 

 were lavished in the buying, rearing, and taming of the 

 mullet ; so much so, that some of those who devoted their time 

 and money to this purpose were satirised as mullet-millionaires. 

 One noble Koman went to a fabulous expense in boring a 

 tunnel through a mountain, in order that he might obtain a 

 plentiful supply of salt water for his fish-ponds. Sergius 

 Grata invented artificial oyster-beds. He caused, as will be 

 afterwards described when I come to speak of oyster-farming, 

 to be constructed at Baias, on the Lucrine Sea, great reservoirs, 

 where he grew the dainty mollusc in thousands ; and in order 

 that he and his friends might have this renowned shell-fish in 

 its very highest perfection, he built a palace on the coast, in 

 order to be near his oyster-ponds ; and thither he resorted 

 when he wanted to have a fish-dinner free from the care and 

 turmoil of business. Many of the more luxurious Italians, 

 imitating Sergius Grata, expended fabulous sums of money on 

 their fish-ponds, and were so enabled, by means of their 

 extravagance, to achieve all kinds of outre results in the 

 fattening and flavouring of their fish. A curious story, 

 illustrative of these times and of the value set on fish of a 

 particular flavour, is related, in regard to the bass (labrax 

 lupv,s) which were caught in the river Tiber. The Koman 

 epicures were very fond of this fish, especially of those caught 

 in a particular portion of the river, which they could tell by 

 means of their taste and fine colour. An exquisite, while 

 dining, was horrified at being served with bass of the wrong- 

 flavour, and loudly complained of the badness of the fish ; the 

 fact being that the real bass (the high-coloured kind) were 

 flavoured by the disgusting food which they obtained at the 

 mouth of a common sewer. 



The modern phase of pisciculture is entirely a commercial 



