ORCHARD AND GARDEN. 



59 



a tree spray as far in on the side near- 

 est as possible, then move apposite 

 and spray that part, next, move a little 

 past it and spray it on that side, also 

 as far as possible. 



The man in the tower, with bis 

 ten-foot rod, should do a little more 

 than half of each tree, leaving the 

 man on the ground the lower branches 

 to spray, and time enough to touch 

 up any twigs or branches in the inner 

 part ot the tree that could not be 

 reached from the tower or without 

 getting in very close to them. Tihe 

 35 feet of hose this man has will en- 

 able him to finish the last half of one 

 tree while the man on tlie tower is 

 spraying the nearer part of the tree in 

 front. Then, when the team steps on, 

 he can finish the nearer part of this 

 tree while 'his companion is spraying 

 the farther part of it. In this way 

 the man on the ground will escape 

 being drenched by his companion. 



In the first spraying, every part of 

 the tree — trunk, branches and twigs — 

 should be thoroughly covered to con- 

 trol scale insects, blister mite, or 

 other insects or diseases that lime- 

 sulphur is a remedy for. If San Jose 

 scale is attundant, give an extra ap- 

 plication for it either in autumn, as 

 soon as most of the leaves have fallen. 

 or in spring, a few days earlier than 

 the regular application, and of the 

 same strength as it. 



The second regular application, 

 which should be given as soon as the 

 pink begins to sihow on the blossom 

 buds of the early varieties, should be 

 made with small or medium-sized 

 holes in the plates of the nozzles, so 

 that the spray will be in the form of 

 a fine mist. The foliage this time 

 should be well covered, and tihe 

 branches and trunks of younger trees. 

 The trunks of old trees need not be 

 sprayed. 



The third spraying must be given 

 immediately after about 90 per cent. 



of the bloom is off. If there are many 

 early-blooming varieties, these may 

 be sprayed first, and then the later 

 ones afterwards; but, if there are 

 only a few early varieties, wait until 

 the bloom is about 90 per cent, off the 

 orchard as a whole, and then go 

 ahead. The bees will be through feed- 

 ing by this time. (It is unlawful to 

 spray in full bloom or when the bees 

 are feeding.) Too much care cannot 

 be given to getting this application on 

 as soon as possible after blooming is 

 over, because this is the spray for the 

 codling moth, and, as a large majority 

 of these insects enter the apples at the 

 calyx end, we can only control this 

 pesit by thoroughly poisoning every 

 calyx before it closes. If you watch 

 the calyx or little tops of the young 

 forming fruit, you will see these close 

 up in about a week after the blossoms 

 drop, and after that it is impossible 

 to get any poison in; but, if it has 

 been put in before they closed, it re- 

 mains there all summer, and kills the 

 worms whenever they try to enter. 

 The codling-moth spray must be 

 most thorougth, and not a single young 

 forming fruit should be missed. 

 Plates for the nozzles with the larger 

 holes should be used, and the poison 

 driven rig^ht into the calyx end. A 

 large tree that has nad an abundance 

 of bloom will require from six to 

 eight, or even more, gallons of spray 

 to do it thorougthly. It has been fre- 

 quently found impossible to get every 

 calyx thoroughly sprayed without lit- 

 erally drenching the trees. Of course, 

 a tree that has had very little bloom 

 will require very little spray mixture 

 — just enough to wet each of the 

 calyces and' to cover the foliage. 

 Trees that have had no bloom may be 

 left till the rest of the orchard has 

 been finished, and then be given a fine 

 mist spray to keep the leaves healthy. 

 As a rule, we find that trees 30 

 years of age and upwards require 



