THE HOME FLORIST. 31 



Triumphant (Beng.), deep crimson, medium sized, quite full and showy. 

 Triumph de Luxemberg (Beng.), brilliant crimson shaded with purple. 



Washington (Nois. ), white tinged with blush, blooms very freely in large clusters; vigorous. 

 White Tea (Tea), an old pure white Tea-scented Rose, still very desirable; free bloomer and 

 good grower. 



CULTIVATION AND MANAGEMENT. 



The Itosnry. Roses, to be most effective, should be planted in a bed by themselves, 

 where it is possible to do so. A dozen Roses scattered, about the garden lose their individuality, 

 and are not nearly as attractive and interesting as when planted in a rosary of any shape the 

 grounds may allow or fancy suggest. Any fair garden soil that is well drained will answer 

 for them to grow in, although where a choice among different soils can be had, one of a loamy 

 clay nature would be found by cultivators preferable to any other, but whatever its character 

 may be, to attain anything like perfection in their culture it should be dug two spades deep, 

 and plenty of good stable manure thoroughly incorporated with it. During summer the surface 

 of the soil should be kept loose by cultivation. In planting the hardy varieties, including 

 Hybrid Perpetuals, which are to remain permanently in the beds, do not plant so close that they 

 will become crowded after attaining to some size; four feet is about right for this division, 

 although the tender varieties will do very well some nearer. Roses will not thrive in a situation 

 much shaded, and like all other fine plants they do better if not exposed to sweeping winds. 



Pruning. Usually the most pleasing shape to have Rose plants of, is a symmetrical, 

 bushy one, which can be produced by judicious pruning. With out-door Roses the proper 

 time to prune those that are entirely hardy is late in the fall, while the varieties that are liable 

 to be frozen back in winter should have the pruning deferred until early spring. All 

 strong shoots of the last season's growth should be cut back to two eyes, making the cut with 

 an upward slope directly above the upper eye, and weak growths should be entirely removed. 

 This will cause a vigorous growth of young wood, and will tend to increase the size and beauty 

 of the flowers. In pruning climbing Roses, only side shoots and such upright ones as may 

 appear superfluous, and all old wood that can be spared, should be cut away. The varieties of 

 the tender division, whose growth is almost continual, require pinching back of the strongest new 

 shoots during the season to keep them shapely, and all branches after they have budded and 

 flowered should be cut back sufficiently to induce a desirable number of new flowering shoots 

 to start into growth from the buds which are allowed to remain. 



Insects injurious to Hoses. The most troublesome insect enemies of the hardy 

 Roses ai-e the Rose Saw-fly, especially in its caterpillar state then known as the Rose Slug and 

 the Rose Chafer or Bug. As the depredations of each of these sometimes assume a serious form, 

 I will endeavor to describe them so that they may be known at their first appearance, and 

 that proper remedies may be applied in time for checking their ravages. During the last two 

 weeks of May, and until the middle of June, the Rose Saw-flies make their appearance upon the 

 plants, pair and lay their eggs in the incisions made with their saws in the leaves. They are of 

 a shiny black color, about one-fifth of an inch in length, and will be found mostly on the under 

 side of the leaves, or flying around from bush to bush. The first young slugs hatch out in a few 

 weeks after the flies appear, usually showing themselves about June 1st, and increasing in num- 

 ber during the month. These are of a pale green color and have an almost transparent, jelly-like 

 appearance. They feed upon the leaves, which soon look as if they had been burned, and drop 

 if the slugs are not destroyed. Dry slacked lime scattered over the leaves while wet with dew 

 is the most convenient remedy for destroying them, and will often prove effectual ; but a more 

 destructive one may be had in frequently syringing the plant with whale oil soap dissolved 

 in water in the proportion of one pound to eight gallons of water ; many of the female insects 

 in their beetle state being more sluggish than the males can be destroyed with this solution if 

 thoroughly applied by sprinkling or with a syringe every day as they first appear. No pains 

 should be spared to lessen the number as much as possible by this means. The Rose Chafer 

 is a small insect with a slender body, which tapers before and behind, measuring near three- 

 eighths of an inch in length, and entirely covered with ashen-yellow down. They usually appear 

 towards the middle of June, sometimes in large numbers, and remain from four to six weeks, 

 also feeding on some other plants besides the Rose. The usually efficacious remedies employed 

 in destroying other insects, scarcely effect these at all ; and about the only way of destroying 

 them is to pass over the plants daily, shake or brush them into tin vessels containing water, 

 or they may be gathered on sheets and burned. Red Spider and Green-fly are the most common 

 insects met with in cultivating Roses in the window and conservatory, and directions are given 

 for preventing and destroying them, in the articles on "The Amateur's Conservatory," and 

 " Plant Culture in and about the House." 



Mildew and Rust. Mildew is a fungoid growth which shows itself upon the leaves 

 and small twigs of Roses and some other plants, both indoors and out. It has a gray mould - 

 like appearance, and seems to be invited by anything that causes the growth of the plant to be 

 suddenly checked. Roses, making a vigorous growth in the window or conservatory, if exposed 

 to a strong draft of cold air from the outside, will frequently be troubled with mildew, or by 



