3 2 THE HOME FLORIST. 



allowing the soil to become dry enough to cause the leaves to droop will generally effect 

 them similarly. All such unfavorable causes should be strictly guarded against. The ordinary 

 agent, and undoubtedly the best, for eradicating and also preventing its appearance is flour of 

 sulphur, which may be applied by dusting it upon the leaves after wetting down the foliage, 

 every few days, until it is no more to be seen. Rust frequently troubles Roses in the garden, by 

 appearing upon the leaves. The most efficient mode of preventing its spreading is to cut olf 

 and burn the infected branches, although if badly affected it may necessitate the sacrifice of the 

 greater part of the plant. 



Protection duririff Winter. Wherever it is possible, by means of protection, to keep 

 Roses in the open ground during winter, I advocate the plan of so doing ; but there will be little 

 use of attempting to winter any but the most robust varieties, unless the ground is thoroughly 

 drained, and when the rosary is in such condition, little loss need occur in leaving out many of 

 the tender varieties in any part of the North, if suitable protection be provided. A most 

 efficient method to adopt in protecting tender kinds, is to bend the plant to the ground, and 

 completely cover with fine soil, from six to ten inches deep. In protecting Roses in a bed, the 

 plants should all be bent in one direction, and the entire bed covered to the same depth. 

 Another good way is to remove the top and bottom from a barrel or box, and placing it over 

 the plant, fill loosely with leaves or straw. An amateur cultivator in Pennsylvania informs me 

 that she succeeds in wintering tender Roses by laying them flat on the ground, and covering them 

 with a board. Where the winters are very severe, and it is not considered desirable to risk tender 

 kinds out of doors, they may be carefully taken up, pruned slightly, and placed in a cold pit 

 until spring. By admitting an abundance of air in sunny spring days and warm weather they 

 may be planted into the beds again by May 1st in this latitude. They should, however, be 

 pruned again before planting out. Although most varieties of Hybrid Perpetual Roses will 

 survive the coldest winters, unprotected, if growing on drained ground, it is a wise policy 

 to cover them with straw late in autumn, being but little trouble, and they generally flower better 

 with such treatment. A stake is firmly driven into the ground to each plant, and the plant tied 

 nicely and rather close to it ; then some straightened straw is placed around the entire length of 

 the plant it need not be very thick and the operation is completed by binding twine or straw 

 bands around the whole, in several places. An application of stable manure or leaves around 

 the base of the plant affords ample protection to the roots. All Roses, including the most 

 tender kinds, will stand quite severe freezing without injury, and protecting the plants of any 

 class should be deferred as late as possible in the fall. In spring, as soon as frost is out of the 

 ground and growing weather at hand, all protection should be removed. 



Hoses for Pot Culture and Winter Bloomirtff. The tender monthly Roses are 

 nearly all suitable for pot culture and winter flowering, the Tea-scented section, with its 

 unapproachable bud varieties, being usually preferred. Plants designed for winter bloom- 

 ing should be grown in pots during the previous summer. These should be plunged to 

 the rim in earth or refuse hops, in order to prevent their drying out. Roses under any circum- 

 stances are quite susceptible of being injured by becoming too dry, and the condition should 

 always be guarded against in pot culture. In the remarks on page 12, entitled "Preparatory 

 Treatment of Plants designed for Winter Flowering," directions are given which apply to summer 

 treatment of Roses grown in pots for this purpose. In August or September the plants should 

 be repotted into larger sized pots, or planting into a box will ansAver quite as well. If they are to 

 be grown in the window, they should now be gradually inured to the changed light and heat by 

 keeping in the house part of each day only, and in the intervening time be given an airy 

 exposure under the piazza or at the side of the house, lessening it by degrees as the season 

 advances. If to be grown or "forced" in the conservatory, this means of acclimating is 

 unnecessary, provided plenty of air is allowed to circulate through the structure after they have 

 been taken in. Their winter position should be as much exposed to sun as possible, and the 

 temperature kept at between 50 and 60 at night, with an increase of 15 higher during the day. 

 Sprinkle the plants frequently, and never allow them to suffer from dryness of the soil. 



Before dismissing this subject, I will explain how, by means of a cold pit, the Hybrid 

 Perpetuals and many other hardy Roses, besides the entire division of tender Roses, may be 

 taken up and made to do a kind of double duty, safely and with little trouble, by flowering 

 profusely in the house or conservatory in March or later, and after being returned to the garden 

 thrive there as usual. For this purpose any of the plants growing and flowering during 

 summer are suitable without extra treatment. Dig them carefully late in October or November, 

 in this latitude, and prune away the old straggling wood and superflous shoots, cutting the 

 remaining shoots back to several eyes ; then pot into good fresh soil, one-third part of which 

 should consist of well rotted manure, pressing it down quite firmly, and give a thorough water- 

 ing when done. After this, place the potted Roses in the cold pit, where they are to remain 

 until the middle of January and later for a succession. In bringing them in from the cold pit to 

 the window or conservatory, do not place in too high a temperature at once. A situation 

 indicating 40 or 45 will answer for them at first, and from this they may be changed to a 

 temperature of from 50 to 60 at night, and receive treatment as directed for winter blooming 

 plants. Contrary to what many persons might suppose, thus forcing Roses does not materially 

 injure the usefulness of the plants, for by planting again into the garden in May, the monthly 

 varieties will flower considerable, and all will regain their usual vigor during the summer. 



