THE HOME FLORIST. 



draw the necessary map for this purpose, as the grounds or their outlines serve to guide the 

 making of it, and with a pencil, rubber, and foot-rule (with the inch and the divisions of the 

 inch marked upon it) you can get along well enough, as regards drawing instruments. First 

 measure each boundary with a measuring tape or a ten-foot pole will do (land surveyors would 

 use a Gunter's chain, but the tape or pole will answer for ordinary use quite as well), represent- 

 ing each in its relative position on the paper, by a line reduced to a certain scale say an inch, 

 or any division of the inch, to represent ten feet on the ground ; then measure the distance the 

 house and other objects are from the boundary line, and from each other, locating each correctly 

 on the map, by measurement with the scale adopted for the boundary lines. Being these, and 

 the boundary lines are objects, which will not be changed in the design, their outlines may be 

 drawn with ink on the map, to prevent their being erased by subsequently using the rubber. 

 The map is now ready for locating the various features to be introduced into the plan; this 

 should be done with a lead pencil, to allow of erasing and changing as often as may be neces- 

 sary, until a plan is found which seems best suited to the place and to your wants. Everything 

 should be drawn by the adopted scale of measurement, and located in its correct position, so 

 that it can easily be transferred to the ground, by measuring, when operations are under way. 

 Occasionally, as the work of planning progresses, each feature should be viewed from various 

 directions, by holding the upper surface of the paper nearly in line with the eye ; this will give 

 a better view of them, as they will appear on the grounds, than when seen by looking in a 

 perpendicular line down upon the paper. The reason of this is obvious, when we cons' ;1 ~r that 

 objects upon a landscape or garden are viewed, in this way the beholder standing upon the level 

 of the grounds, and not above them. 



It is well to make several maps, and draw a different plan upon each, thus securing the 

 means of making comparisons, and choosing the one which combines the greatest number of 

 good points. Fac-similes of the first map are easily produced for this purpose, by laying this 

 one on top of half-a-dozen or less .papers of the same size, and then thrusting the point of a thin 

 pin-like instrument down through the papers at the corners of all angles, and the various points 

 on the map. This will leave distinct marks on each paper, which will serve to guide- 

 drawing the lines for making each a fac-simile of the upper one. Too great care cannot be 

 taken in making various plans and in finally deciding upon one, and any inconsideratenesss in 

 these respects may be the source of regret afterwards. This is work for the leisure hours of winter, 

 and it should be engaged in early enough, so that each and all distinct features that suggest 

 themselves, may be deliberately pondered over and studied in their relation to the whole 

 design, for, bear in mind, when a plan is once fully decided upon, and the work of completion 

 executed, it is done for a long time distant in the future, and will stand as a monument, pointing 

 either to the wise and deliberate or to the reckless action of the projector. 



Fig. 2. Arranging Stakes to facilitate Grading. 



Grading and Leveling. After the plan has been completed, the work of grading 

 the surface, which if generally more or less uneven, is first in order if it has not been done pre- 

 viously. Grading is one of the distinguishing features of a complete garden, and if nice and 

 evenly done, does more to give to grounds, otherwise well improved, a finished appearance 

 than any other one operation. The lawn if properly made will then present the appearance 

 of a carpet of velvety green, and flower beds, shrubs and trees will stand in delight- 

 ful relief above the surface. The propriety of preserving natural undulations, or attempting 

 artificial variety of surface in moderate sized or small grounds, is always questionable; although 

 in large grounds planted in irregular style these, if softly and appropriately finished off, may be 

 made to improve the general appearance of the grounds. The work of grading is commenced 

 by passing over the grounds and leveling, being guided only by the eye ; all elevations should be 

 plowed up, and the ground from them should be hauled or scraped into the depressions which 

 may exist. It should, however, be observed that at least six inches of good soil overlay the 

 Avhole in all places, and where any considerable hills are removed, sufficient subsoil is also to be 

 removed to be replaced with top soil to this depth. Wherever walks and drives are to come, 

 the ground may now be excavated to a proper depth for filling in with the road material, and 

 be used in low places. When this rough grading is completed, drains should be laid wherever 

 necessary, after which the work should be planned for finishing the grading to a nicety, and to 

 do this it will be necessary to set guide stakes in rows across the grounds, driven down so that 

 the heads be in line, and exactly marking where the new surface is to come. To accom- 

 plish driving the guide stakes so that the heads will thus be in line I shall presently explain. 

 If a heavy rain can be had on the grounds before the work at this stage is advanced, it will 

 be all the better, otherwise it will become necessary, with the finishing work, to leave the 

 ground sufficiently elevated wherever filling in of low places was done, to allow for what the 



