RKMARKS ON PARTS OF GREECE. .'j45 



Parnassus ; in this part, in tlie depth of summer, we observed snow 

 in a cavity near the summit of the mountain. After an hour and a 

 half from the r^ioS^og are perceived the remains of an ancient fortress, 

 near which is a fountain ; this part of Parnassus is rugged, with httle 

 cultivation, though the sides of the mountain are much scattered with 

 pine-trees. An hour from the palaio-castro, as this kind of ruin is 

 always termed by the modern Greeks, is Rakova, a small village in 

 an elevated part of the mountain, commanding a magnificent view ; 

 before us, was the valley of Delphi, which was seen in its length, 

 confined on one side by Parnassus, on the other by Mount Cirphis ; 

 perpendicular to this valley was the plain of Crissa, clouded by its 

 olive-yards, bounded by the rude mountainous country of the Ozola?; 

 the fantastic abrupt shapes of Parnassus were well contrasted with 

 the luxuriance of the valley, which was a continued plantation of 

 vines. Delphi is about five hours from Daulis ; a small village, 

 under the appellation of Castri, now occupies the site of this memo- 

 rable spot ; it presents a rugged and uneven slope, above which, the 

 summits of Parnassus rise abrupt and perpendicular. Here are two 

 fountains, probably those of Castalia and Cassotis *, the " vocal 

 streams," of which the priestess drank before she uttered her mys- 

 terious prophecies. The rock in the vicinity, has been much chisselled 

 and excavated ; near a spring, is a square artificial grotto, one of the 

 BacchicEe Speluncae mentioned by Macrobius. The head of an ox, 

 which is sculptured in a cavern or room in the rock, has a reference 

 to Apollo, (v. Huet. D. Ev. iv. c. 8.) Some valuable inscriptions 

 have been copied at Delphi f : the remains of the stadium are very 

 evident ; but those of the theatre and temple, the latter of which 

 was restored at so late a period as the time of the Emperor Julian, 



* That the waters of Cassotis, as well as Castalia were used, is evident from Pausan. 

 Lucian. Eurip. See the authorities quoted by Van Dale, de Orac. 130. Tiie " vocal 

 streams" are mentioned in part of the response, uttered to Oribasius, Julian's physician. 

 Cedren. 250. Ed. Bas. aTrcV/SjTo xai kdkov u5c«p. 



t One found by Wheler and Spon, speaks of the privileges of vpot^/ia, irpoiixla, 

 xpofsvio, and ■xfajjLoi.vTei'x, (or the right of consulting the oracle first) bestowed on some 

 persons. ^ > 



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