452 BUDDINQ THE VINE. 



most accurately ; tie it securely down, and then cover the bandage 

 with grafting wax, so as to make the wound quite air-tight. No 

 further attention will be necessary, except to protect the bud from 

 injury. Tie the young shoot as it progresses, and gradually reduce 

 the shoots upon the old vine until the whole resources of the plant 

 are concentrated upon the young shoot. Sometimes this kind of 

 grafting or budding is deferred until the sap begins to rise ; then the 

 bark is raised in the same way as in budding, and the bud is inserted 

 and tied down in the same manner. The only objection to the prac- 

 tice is that the vines are frequently injured by bleeding ; and hence 

 we prefer to graft in the dormant season, as being safer from injury, 

 and we think more certain. 



Another kind of grafting or budding is now becoming fashionable. 

 A new vine is sent out in the autumn, and you are anxious that you 

 should fruit it in the following season. To do this, cut grafts of the 

 half-ripened wood near the base of the plant, retaining the petiole or 

 leaf-stalk, but removing the leaf. Then cut a corresponding incision 

 in the established vine intended for a stock ; fit the graft accurately, 

 making it quite secure, then cover with the grafting wax as before 

 directed. It is best that the graft or bud should be placed close under 

 a leaf, so that it may have the advantage of its nursing, and, if desired, 

 a number may be placed upon each vine. To ensure success, the 

 house should be kept close until such time as the grafts have taken, 

 and they may be shaded for the first fortnight. Strong grafts thus 

 carefully put on will generally produce fruit the following season ; 

 indeed, they are much more sure of doing so than those worked in 

 the spring. 



The scions grafted, or the eyes rooted, planted out, and in a vigorous- 

 growing state, the next thing is the care of the young vines. These, 

 in the earth-bed to which we have before referred, will progress with great 

 rapidity; but it is essential that the growth should be strong and healthy, 

 the joints strong and short, and the buds plump and well rounded up. 

 To this end the temperature of the house should not exceed 70 by 

 fire heat, but it may rise to 80 or 90 with sun heat and plenty of 

 moisture in the atmosphere. Give a free circulation of air throughout 

 the day, but avoid cold draughts, especially in dull weather. The vines 

 will require to be syringed morning and evening in fine sunny weather, 

 and in the evening on dull days, until such time as the full growth is 

 made, and then the syringing may be gradually discontinued. 



Budding the vine has been most successfully practised by Mr. Z. 

 Stevens, the able gardener at Trentham. The best time to perform 

 the operation is in the end of August or beginning of September, 

 when the wood of the vine to be worked will be in a half-ripe con- 

 dition, that of the scion being also in a somewhat green and pliable 

 state. The bud to be inserted is cut out as shown on a reduced scale 

 in the engraving, the small layer of wood not being cut out as in the 

 case of the rose. A corresponding piece is cut out of the stock, a small 

 nick being made at the lower part of the incision, so that the bud may 

 rest firmly in its position, as shown in the illustration. A small cor- 



