CHERRY FORCING IN BRITISH GARDENS. 487 



between the plate and the surface of the soil should be filled by 

 boards nailed against the piles, to exclude the external air, for the plate 

 must be elevated above the level of the surface from eighteen to 

 thirty inches, or whatever height may be sufficient to let the sashes 

 slip down, in order to admit fresh air. This structure, or one formed 

 of Beard's patent sashes, will suit well for cherries, for such structures 

 have been erected for forcing peaches with great success, as well as for 

 maturing and preserving a late crop of grapes. 



German Practice. In the Royal Gardens at Potsdam, cherries are 

 frequently forced so as to be ripe at the end of February. The plants 

 are potted a year before they are forced. They are potted in autumn, 

 and the roots protected from frost through the winter by being 

 covered with litter. 



In the following spring the blossom-buds are broken off as soon as 

 they appear ; and, by the end of June, all the shoots which have pushed 

 freely have their points pinched off, so as to leave not more than six 

 buds, which buds by that operation become blossom-buds. 



Before the plants are taken in they must at least have sustained 1 4 

 Fahr. of cold, otherwise they are found to break very irregularly. 

 The blossoms are thinned out ; so much so, that where fifteen have 

 appeared, not more than three have been allowed to expand. The con- 

 struction of the house in which the forcing is commenced varies ac- 

 cording to the season. When the trees are taken in, in December and 

 January, the glass of the roof must be much steeper than when they 

 are not taken in till February and March. 



Heat is communicated by flues, commencing with 46 Fahr. The 

 trees are frequently sprinkled with lukewarm water ; and the roots, 

 which ought to have been kept quite dry for some time before the 

 plants are taken in, are well soaked with warm water. Boiling water 

 is mixed with equal quantities of cold, and water of this temperature 

 is used till within fourteen days of the trees coming into blossom. 



When the buds break out into bloom, watering overhead with luke- 

 warm water is left off, but the stems are kept moist by rubbing them 

 two or three times a day with a wet brush. During the blooming 

 season the temperature is raised from 46 to 67, every third day, 2J 

 more heat being added. Abundance of air is given, and shade during 

 bright sunshine. In boisterous weather gauze is placed over the open- 

 ings through which the air is admitted, of the advantage of which in 

 moderating the violence of the wind, the Royal gardener has expressed 

 himself well assured after eight years' experience. To cause the blossoms 

 to set, the branches and spray are frequently put in motion, but care 

 is taken not to move the main stem, by which the fibrous roots might 

 be injured. When the fruit is setting and swelling, the temperature 

 must be kept between 54 and 65. 



When the fruit is stoning, the temperature is lowered to 59 for 

 two or three weeks, during which period the house must be shaded in 

 bright sunshine, and the plants watered overhead once or twice a day. 



When the stoning is completed and the fruit begins to swell, the 

 temperature is again raised to 65, and no more shade given, in order 



