CULTURE OF THE MELON. 497 



and open to the south. The situation must be well sheltered from the 

 north. Whichever description of bed is used, the plants may be raised 

 from seeds or cuttings in April or May, and turned out the first week 

 in June. The plants should not be raised on bottom heat, because the 

 transition to the open air is found to give them such a check as to turn 

 the leaves yellow, and the entire plant sickly. There are two decided 

 advantages in growing the melon in ridges sloping to the south : the 

 sun's rays are received at a much larger angle, in consequence of 

 which the temperature is raised from 10 to 15 higher than it is in 

 the shade ; and a larger, and consequently a more effective, casing can 

 be applied behind. The only disadvantage is the difficulty of maintain- 

 ing a uniform degree of moisture in the soil, which must, therefore, be 

 frequently watered, and always with water at a temperature of 70 to 

 90. When the plants are first inserted in the bed they are closely 

 covered with hand-glasses, but as soon as they have begun to grow the 

 glasses are raised on bricks, so as to allow the shoots to advance from 

 beneath them ; and these shoots are carefully pegged down to preserve 

 them from being deranged by the wind. The first fruit from such 

 beds is generally cut in August, and they will continue productive till 

 the plants are destroyed by frost in October. The hand-lights should 

 remain over the crowns of the plants, to save them from canker. 

 Some of the hardier rocky melons, or coarse scarlet-flesh melons, are 

 most suited for this mode of culture. 



Insects and Diseases. The aphis, the red spider, and the thrips, are 

 the greatest enemies to the melon, and if once the plants are overrun 

 with any of them, it is scarcely possible to restore them to health. The 

 aphis may be destroyed by fumigating with tobacco. The best method 

 of doing it is with the fumigating bellows, the muzzle being introduced 

 through a perforation in the front of the frame or pit, nearly on a level 

 with the surface of the mould ; the sashes should be covered with mats 

 at the same time, to prevent the escape of the fumes. The operation 

 should always be performed in the evening, and renewed the following 

 one ; not a drop of water, from any source, should be allowed to touch 

 the plants the next day. The frames are to be kept closed and shaded, 

 and not opened, if it can be avoided, for twenty-four hours. Preven- 

 tion is, however, not only better, but easier than cure, and with a 

 moist atmosphere and a free ventilation most of these pests may be 

 kept down. The wood-louse is a constant enemy to the melon, and is 

 most effectually kept under by keeping a toad or two in the frames. If 

 they should become exceedingly numerous, a flower-pot, laid on its 

 side, with a cooked potato and some dry hay in it, renewing it when 

 it becomes damp, is an excellent trap. The canker is a frequent 

 disease in the melon, generally occurring at the point where the. plants 

 emerge from the soil. A little air-slaked lime, as fresh as can be ob- 

 tained, to the wounded part, though it does not cure the disease, for it 

 is incurable, retards its progress. The rotting of the stems from damp, 

 want of light, or too free a use of the knife, is nearly as fatal as the 

 canker, and, like it, is incurable ; but where it takes place at a distance 

 from the root, an increase of heat and the free admission of air and 



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