THE CHERRY. 551 



Black Bigarreau, Late Purple Guigne, Rival, Nouvelle Royale, Plan- 

 choury, Transparent, and the latest of all, Belle Agathe. 



Cherries for Preserving. Kentish and all its varieties, Belle Magni- 

 fique, Morello. 



Cherries adapted for being trained against walls of different aspects 

 have been enumerated before. 



Cherries for a Cottage Garden. May Duke, Late Duke, Kentish, and 

 Morello. 



Cherries for the North of Scotland. May Duke, Elton, Downton, 

 Tiiger's Redheart, Winter's Blackheart, Lundy Gean, Kentish, Morello. 



Propagation, Nursery Culture, and Choice of Plants. Budding is 

 more frequently resorted to than grafting, because the wounds made 

 by the latter operation are apt to gum. Stocks raised from stones of the 

 wild cherry, or the cultivated cherry, are used when free-growing plants 

 are required ; the Morello, when the object is plants of moderate 

 size ; and the perfumed cherry (Cerasus Mahaleb), when very dwarf 

 trees are wanted. Standard cherry trees are generally budded 

 standard high, on free stocks of three-years' growth from the seed, 

 which have been one year transplanted. Cherry-stones for stocks are 

 sown in sandy soil in autumn, immediately after they have been taken 

 from the fruit, or they are preserved in sand through the winter, the 

 heap being two or three times turned over, and sown in spring. The 

 plants come up the same season, and may be transplanted in autumn, in 

 rows three feet apart, one foot distant in the row if for dwarfs, and 

 eighteen inches if for standards. If for dwarfs, they may be budded the 

 following summer, but if for standards, a third season's growth will be 

 required. The dwarfs require no pruning the first year ; but the second 

 spring, if not sold, or transplanted to where they are finally to remain, 

 they require to be cut down, and if intended for a wall, they should be 

 flat-trained by means of a row of three or four stakes to each tree. 

 Whatever pruning is required for the cherry should be done a little 

 before midsummer, which, while it is found to prevent gumming, is also 

 favourable for the healing over of the wounds the same season. The 

 best plants for removal are those which have been one or two years 

 worked ; but as the cherry produces abundance of fibrous roots, it 

 may be transplanted after it has been three or four years trained, more 

 especially if growing in a loamy soil. 



Soil, Situation, and Final Planting. The cherry grows naturally in 

 dry sandy soils, and situations rather elevated than low ; but the culti- 

 vated tree requires a soil rather more loamy, which, however, must be 

 on a dry bottom. Almost all the varieties may be grown as standards, 

 and there is no great difference between them in regard to hardiness ; 

 but the earliest and largest fruit is produced against walls, by which 

 the fruit is also improved in flavour. The distances at which cherry- 

 trees may be planted against walls, espaliers, as dwarfs, and in the 

 orchard, are given at pp. 391, 400. 



Mode of Bearing, Pruning, and Training. The fruit is generally pro- 

 duced on small spurs or studs, from half an inch to two inches in 

 length, which proceed from the sides and ends of the two-year, three- 



