174 THE MOORS AND THE MOUNTAINS. 



of the indented shore. The coast in general was bold and 

 rocky, with fine headlands running into the sea, and be- 

 tween them little quiet bays of golden sand, with here and 

 there a cottage on a cliff, or a few fishing-boats floating 

 in their then peaceful havens, or drawn ashore upon the 

 safer beach. But it was easy to see how, on the approach 

 of the ambiguous autumn, or when the raging tempests of 

 winter were let fairly loose, what a dread turmoil would 

 take place in all those narrow channels, and how the 

 tyrannous ocean would war and chafe against that iron- 

 bound shore. 



" On leaving Lairg, on Thursday, we travelled in our boat 

 as far as Altnaliarrow, a poor, smoky, forlorn place, which 

 pretends to be an inn. We stayed there two nights and 

 one clay, all sleeping on the same floor. We then fished 

 Loch Naver (in which I killed a good salmon) and some 

 other lochs. Sir William got a black water-rat, the same 

 as that variety found near Aberdeen, and which some 

 think a new species. Leaving Altnaharrow on Saturday 

 morning, we travelled partly in our boat and partly on 

 foot, fishing such lochs as lay in our way, and reached 

 Tongue about seven to dinner. It is a most comfortable 

 place. I have a little spare room to myself; and the feed- 

 ing is excellent. The scenery is so fine that we shall stay a 

 day or two, particularly to ascend Ben Loyal, a fine moun- 

 tain, close at hand. We have also to fish Loch Loyal, &c. 



