266 cruises. 



under the auspices of the factor, Mr Matheson appeared 

 to see that all was right. He accompanied us to the por- 

 tico, where we embarked in a handsome double-seated dog- 

 cart with a couple of gallant grays, driven by the factor, 

 a little groom accompanying us to take care of the beasts 

 during our inspections. I heard Mr Matheson at break- 

 fast time desiring the butler to fill the sandwich box, and 

 put it with some old .sherry in the dog-cart. This was 

 very right ! 



" We started, and drove for several hours over, it must 

 be confessed, a most bleak and barren country, not a tree 

 to be seen, neither rock nor mountain — nothing but 

 black moorland, with here and there some long thin grass 

 whistling in the wind, or a forlorn patch of oats or barley 

 seeking a precarious existence from the spongy soil. Even 

 the blooming heather, which elsewhere so often throws its 

 purple splendour over the mountain wilderness, seems dry 

 and shrivelled. But on nearing the northern extremity of 

 the island, we came upon a good deal of improved land, 

 and there is no doubt Mr M. will ere long effect a consi- 

 derable change. Most of the huts are like the ancient St 

 Kilda ones, or worse ; but he is rebuilding many of them, 

 and forcing the people to be comfortable. After driving 

 about twenty miles over the wilderness, we came to a snug 

 farm-house with stacks of hay and corn, enclosures of turnips 

 and potatoes, and fields of grass and clover. We here took 



