METHODS IN THE ART OF TAXIDERMY. 



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the neck must be formed around it, whatever shape )ou adopt. I pre- 

 fer for the neck of a deer a gracefully curved center-board ; the natural 

 shape of a deer's neck is more easily obtained by it (see Fig. 3, Plate 

 LXXI). At the end of this center-board there must be fixed a neck- 

 board around which to tack the skin. It should be the shape of the 

 neck at its base. This is seen in I'ig. 2, Plate LXIX. The neck- 

 board is fastened to the center-board by means of screws. In order to 

 make the neck-board the proper shape and size, measure the neck-skin 

 and make the proper shape out of a one-inch pine board, from these 

 measurements, which, for a deer, is about as we have it in Fig. 2, Plate 

 LXIX. Fasten it to the center-board, the end of which can be seen 

 in Fig. 1 of the Plate just referred to. Now put an eye-screw in the 

 top as seen in F'ig. 3, Plate LXIX, by which to hang the head on the 

 wall in a convenient place where you can work at it. If you prefer to 

 do so you can fasten it temporarily to a square board with an eye- 

 screw, and, in this shape, hang it on the wall (Fig. 2, Plate LXX). Now 

 begin to form the neck by wrapping tow around the center-board all 

 the way up to the skull, giving it the proper shape and size by bind- 

 ing it firmly down with cord. Having gone this far take the skin 

 out of the salt and alum pickle and try it on the manikin. Pull the 

 skin together at the opening along the back of the neck and around 

 the base of the horns and see how it fits. You can easily judge where 

 more tow is needed, or where it should be taken away. When this 

 has been done take the skin off and model the head with clay and 

 chopped tow as is represented in the figures of Plate LXX. Now 

 is the time to give the inside of the skin a heavy coating of 

 arsenical paste or soap (see page o-t), and leave it lie until just be- 

 fore you place it on the model for the last time when it should have 

 another heavy coat. Paint it also thoroughly around the base of the 

 horns where the skin is to form around them. Give the ears all they 

 will hold all the way to their tips. Continue to model the neck proper 

 all over with clay mixed with chopped tow, until your model is com- 

 plete. The next thing in order are the ears ; these must have sheet 

 lead or copper cut and hammered the shape of the ear, to replace the 

 cartilage you have taken out and to fill them all the way to the tips. 

 These metal ears should be trumpet shape at their base that they may 

 rest snugly on the skull. They may be inserted in the skin of the ear, 

 and when the skin is placed in position on the head the base of the 

 metal ears may be imbedded in the clay. When you have placed the 

 skin on the manikin take several stitches along the back of the neck to 

 hold it in place while you proceed with the sewing. Begin at the base 



