PRINCIPLES OF GOOD PLANTING 



get the distance between the rows, or lines, of trees, directly, 

 and set stakes at the ends of these on all four sides; then plow 

 furrows, or stretch a wire (about No. 14, with drops of solder 

 and colored strings wrapped on the proper distance apart 

 for the trees) completely across the field where the row will 

 stand, and put the trees the distance apart decided on origin- 

 ally. The square method of setting is simple, and, if it is wanted, 

 any one quickly will think of an adaptation of some of these 

 plans for getting the position of each tree. A way to avoid 

 setting a stake exactly where the tree is to stand is to set a row 

 of stakes entirely around the orchard land, and then set two 

 rows entirely across the middle, in opposite directions, being 

 careful to get these center stakes between tree rows. 



Anywhere you look, in this way, you will have two stakes 

 to sight by. The stakes can be so arranged that trees can be 

 set either on the square or triangular plan, by carefully think- 

 ing out beforehand in which directions the rows will run, and the 

 positions of the trees, then setting the stakes accordingly. If 

 you adopt this plan, and keep the stakes away from the posi- 

 tion for the trees, you will not need the following. But it takes 

 a good eye to set trees straight in holes, and here is a surer 

 plan: After you have a stake exactly where each tree is to go, 

 get a board seven feet long, with a wooden pin about six inches 

 long sticking down from each end, one pin tight, the other 

 loose, and with a deep notch in the middle of the board. When 

 you dig the tree holes, first lay this board down (always with 

 the same side up and notch ahead) with the stake in the notch, 

 push the pins into the ground, then pull out the stake, lift 

 the end of the board which has the removable pin, and turn 

 it around out of the way. When you are ready to plant the 

 tree, bring the board back again, drop the end with the hole 

 over its pin, which is still sticking where you left it, and set 

 the tree with the trunk in the notch. 



Where there are more than a couple of dozen trees to plant, 

 it is best to double-stake the whole orchard before holes are 

 dug. This is the way to do when you use dynamite in digging 

 the tree holes. Instead of having one pin solid in the board, 

 merely have two holes through which to drive small stakes 

 that are left at each hole. After the holes are blown out or 

 dug, and when you go to plant, put the board over the stakes 

 again, and get the exact position for the tree at the notch. 



Unpack trees as soon as you get them, unless they are 

 frozen. (In that case let them thaw out slowly in a cool cellar.) 

 Shake out packing material, dip the roots in mud, and either 

 plant or heel-in at once. If you heel-in, cover tops and all 

 with dirt. Young trees should be well cut back at the time of 

 planting, as directed in the pruning chapter, in order to get a 

 balance between the amount of roots and the amount of top. 

 Half, or more, of the roots always are destroyed in digging trees, 

 even with the most careful work that can be done, so we must 

 cut back the top to correspond. All damaged roots should be 

 cut off smoothly with the slant on the under side. The tops 

 should be cut down to where you want the heads to start 



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