HOW TO GROW AND MARKET FRUIT 



SPLIT FORKS 



Should a tree split, draw the sections together with a rope 

 and pulleys, bore a hole through them and bolt them together. 

 This can be done by using one long bolt, or by using two short 

 ones with rings for heads, and connecting them with a wire 

 or chain. Some growers do not bore holes, but use screws 

 with ring heads. We have seen trees that had a complete 

 system of such supports, all the wires (from each limb) coming 

 together in the center of the head, on a strong ring. Do not 

 put a wire or chain around the limbs. It is possible to connect 

 two cross- growing limbs, or one leading toward an opposite 

 fork, so they will unite and form a natural brace. 



WINDBREAKS FOR ORCHARDS 



A windbreak will protect fruit trees from cold. In case of 

 late spring frost this is done by deflecting up over the trees 

 the downward flowing frosty air. The windbreak must not 

 be thick enough to produce a dead air space in its lee, as such 

 a condition will cause frosted blossoms every time. The break 

 must let some of the air through to keep up the motion through 

 the orchard. 



With the more tender trees like peaches and plums, a wind- 

 break is of the greatest value, protecting the tender twigs and 

 buds from the most penetrating cold in times of high wind in 

 midwinter. In the summer and fall, half the fruit on heavily 

 loaded trees sometimes will be blown off if not protected by 

 a windbreak; but if protected the normal number of drops 

 will be diminished by at least half, while the damage from 

 storms will be largely eliminated. 



Spraying and picking in unprotected orchards often have 

 to be stopped on windy days. Here a windbreak would enable 

 the operators to put the liquid where it is needed or enable 

 pickers to go ahead with their work. A windbreak will retain 

 snow and leaves and so prevent deep frosting and excessive 

 soil evaporation; will lessen breaking of trees and twigs under 

 loads of ice; will enable trees to grow straighter; will protect 

 blossoms from severe winds and so help pollination; and in 

 some cases will hasten the ripening of fruit. 



Windbreaks will harbor insects to a certain extent, but not 

 if they are sprayed. If they are not planted far enough from 

 the outside rows of fruit trees they will rob them of plant food. 

 Plant the break at least forty feet from the nearest fruit trees. 

 Some advise that eighty or one hundred feet be left here, and 

 claim that the space will be well used. 



Norway spruce, Scotch and Austrian pines and the arbor- 

 vitae make the best evergreen windbreak. California privet, 

 Lombardy poplars and maples made good deciduous windbreaks. 

 In some places it is desirable to have the break thick from the 

 ground up; in others it should be open at the bottom, and 

 thicker on a level with the foliage of the fruit trees. 



