Cold Vegetable Houses. 71 



attended to when needed, and whenever done should be 

 thorough, so as not to require over-frequent repetition. In theory 

 the plants are to be thinned to 2 inches apart in the rows. In 

 practice they are usually left to grow as they come up ; and with 

 good seed, a thorougly prepared, almost perfect seed-bed, and 

 the water supply under entire control, the gardener can sow 

 thinly enough that the plants will not be unduly crowding each 

 other, and yet cover the entire space for this latter, as in cold 

 frame management, must be the foremost aim. Stimulate the 

 growth by all legitimate means, give ventilation when needed, 

 and generally treat like plants in cold frames. Cut, barrel and 

 market the stuff when the demand is brisk, and prices good. 



Towards the end of February, or early in March, every spot 

 cleared from spinach is at once prepared for the next crop, which 

 may be lettuce and radishes. These vegetables are planted, and 

 generally handled and marketed same as if grown in cold frames, 

 always bearing in mind that they should stand thick enough to 

 cover and utilize every available inch of space, yet without undue 

 crowding. On this point hinges the measure of success. And 

 don't forget the early thinning of the radishes to two inches 

 apart. Boston Market lettuce is yet a general favorite for glass 

 culture. Of radishes, the early round varieties, especially Ear- 

 liest Scarlet Erfurt, Round Dark Red, Maule's Earliest Scarlet, 

 etc., can justly be recommended for this purpose. All these, 

 under stimulating treatment, can be put in market in between 

 four and six weeks from the time of sowing, so that the house, 

 wholly or in part, will be ready for another crop early in April. 

 This next crop may be cucumbers, egg plants, tomatoes, or what- 

 ever promises to give best returns at the time of maturity. Cu- 

 cumbers (Long Green or White Spine) are usually the crop 

 selected. They are planted in hills five feet apart each way, leav- 

 ing two or three plants per hill, soon cover the entire area with 

 thrifty and generally healthy vines, and produce cucumbers a 

 number of weeks in advance of the earliest grown in open air, 

 hence at a time when they always bring a good price. When the 

 vines begin to bloom, the sashes are removed, first partly during 

 the day, then entirely both day and night, so that insects have 

 all the chances needed to fertilize (pollenize) the fruit blossoms, 

 and the gardener has no need of using artificial means for the 

 transfer of the pollen to the embryo fruit. 



If tomatoes or egg plants are the crop selected, the aim must 

 be the same as with a cucumber crop, namely, to get the fruit 

 into a willing market a few weeks sooner than competition from 

 outdoor growers begins, thus getting the benefit of consumers' 

 sharpened appetites and readiness to pay a remunerative price 

 for the product. The Lorillard and Dwarf Champion tomatoes 

 are probably superior sorts for this purpose. They can 



