130 How to Make the Garden Pay. 



most convenient material at hand for the purpose is the soil 

 itself. We simply pulverize the surface, for an inch or two in 

 depth, by stirring it freely with cultivator, harrow, hoe, or what- 

 ever implement of tillage we may find most convenient and most 

 effective. This covering of pulverized soil we must try to keep 

 on top all through the season. The capillary action from below 

 stops when it meets this loose material with its large interstices ; 

 and moisture cannot pass through and beyond it except by the 

 method of slow evaporation ; so that our supply is held for the 

 use of plants below the stirred portion of the soil. 



Hard rains, of course, again pack the soil tightly, and when 

 this happens, capillary action is at once resumed, and moisture 

 brought up by it clear to the surface. Therefore it is of the 

 greatest urgency that we begin work again with the cultivator and 

 hoe, as soon after each rain as practicable, to replace the import- 

 ant mulch of loose soil. When this point is properly attended 

 to, and with the fundamental conditions spoken of in our favor, 

 we will have little to fear from any drouth of average dura- 

 tion ; and even an unusually severe one will not be likely to 

 cripple us. Our yields may be reduced, but thoroughness and 

 promptness in cultivation on judiciously selected and wisely 

 managed land will not admit entire failure on account of drought. 



PRECAUTIONS AGAINST FROST. Quite frequently spring begins 

 with a long mild spell, lulling the gardener into a sense of 

 security, and inducing him to plant all sorts of tender things in 

 the open ground. Suddenly a cold rain sets in, and on clearing, 

 is followed by a night frost or two that make a clean sweep 

 among all unprotected tender vegetation. In an early warm 

 spring the gardener must take some risk, for there is no gain 

 without. So we may plant some sweet corn, and set a few 

 tomato plants, but never more of the latter than we will be able 

 to protect by covering, or replace, should a late frost occur. If 

 the plants were well-grown and properly hardened, they will 

 often pass through the ordeal of a cold spell or a very light 

 frost without suffering injury, where plants not so hardened 

 would succumb at once. 



The main crop of tender plants, however, should not be 

 transferred to the open ground until the soil has become 

 thoroughly warm, and all danger of late frost is past. This for 

 the latitude of Philadelphia will be about May I5th, and further 

 north not until June 1st. Tender plants up to that time are 

 generally much better off in a protected place, frame or green- 

 house, where with proper allowance of space they continue to 

 grow uninterruptedly, than when exposed to the comparative 

 hardships of cool soil and occasional chilly days and nights of 

 early spring, conditions which will not permit much growth, and 

 more generally keep the plants at almost a perfect standstill, 



