How to manage a Garden 



prying individuals of the meddling type are restrained, an 

 impassable barrier is placed to the force of the wind, the 

 exclusiveness of the place is secured, and many fruit-trees 

 may be grown on the walls. 



Presuming that a wall is to be built, it should be made 

 of sufficient height and sufficiently solid ; and to be in any 

 way useful for fruit-trees should not be less than ten feet. 

 Small low walls may be good for growing tomatoes and 

 rose trees on, but are of little use for the more serviceable 

 crops of apples, pears, plums, apricots, peaches, &rc. Even 

 walls six feet high afford no chance for fruit-trees to give 

 us the best that is in them. If the walls can be made 

 higher than ten feet it would be greatly to the advantage 

 of the trees trained thereon, but as the cost would be great 

 and the size of the garden may be too small, we will fix 

 the standard height at ten feet. There is also to be 

 considered the solidity of the masonry. To put up walls 

 which the first September wind will blow over, or the first 

 fall below 32 will crack up, and cause to crumble away, 

 is useless. Whether we have stone walls or brick walls 

 does not matter much, if they are well pointed ; but they 

 must be well pointed. Certainly, however, brick walls are 

 much better for training fruit-trees on. They present 

 a more even face, are, if anything, warmer, and offer greater 

 facilities for nailing. It is generally necessary, where stone 

 walls are used, to attach wire to the walls ; and galvanised 

 wire in the vicinity of large towns is known to have a bad 

 effect on the trees. At one time, as we read in the old 

 books, and as we can often see now in large gardens, 

 hollow walls were built and fires made to heat them, to 

 grow thereon peaches, nectarines, &c. I doubt if they are 

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