How to manage a Garden 



beaten hard and made of a concave or convex shape, 

 according to the position the pipes will take, these should 

 be laid in. Pipes may or may not be necessary, but when 

 they are, a row should be put down the centre of the walk, 

 or at each side, the bottom of the walk sloping towards 

 the pipes. Brickbats, stones, mortar rubbish, clinkers, 

 glass, and all hard substances, such as broken crockery, 

 &c., may be thrown in. These should be broken to about 

 the size of a cricket ball, and well rammed down. When 

 the former level has been nearly reached, the work may 

 with advantage be left for a week or two to let it pitch, 

 although there is no downright necessity for this. Some 

 good gravel should then be obtained not such as is found 

 at the top of a path, but of a coarser sort, almost like that 

 used on the public highways. About six inches of this 

 should be put down, and among it may be scattered some 

 lime rubble, if there be any about. This also should be 

 well rammed, and it then remains to put on the final 

 dressing of gravel, which should be neither too coarse nor 

 too fine, but all capable of passing through the meshes of 

 an inch sieve. With this may be put some sand, either 

 before it is put down or afterwards. The face of the walk 

 should present a slightly convex appearance, just sufficient 

 to adequately throw off the water, but no more. Of course 

 the wider the walk, the greater must be the height of the 

 centre compared with that of the sides; but in no case, 

 and certainly not in a small walk, should the curvature be 

 so pronounced as to make walking uncomfortable. In 

 the sectional plan given (Figs. 42-44) is shown what is 

 really meant. When the form of the face is made, 

 water should be poured over if dry, and the roller put on. 

 88 



