Training, Pruning, etc. 



consequent on slow growth, may be obtained. If owing 

 to the frequent restraint the tree breaks into unusual 

 vigour, as young trees will often do, the best remedy is 

 to lift them and perhaps curtail their roots. Those who 

 want good trees which will be fruitful for a long period 

 must certainly be patient and wait for them. At present 

 there is no other way. 



The Pruning Question. 



It is intelligence rather than skill which is required for 

 pruning. We have to study the nature of a tree to find 

 out how it fruits and try to divert much of the energy of 

 the tree in that direction and remove superfluous growth. 



Apples and pears may be pruned in much the same 

 way. The old wood is left, as it is from this that the spurs 

 spring. New growth, except where required for extending 

 the tree, or filling vacancies, should be cut back to six or 

 eight buds in July or August, and then when the leaves 

 have left and the sap is still, cut hard back to one or two 

 eyes. Peaches require plenty of young wood to be worked 

 in, at the same time getting rid of old fruitless portions. 

 The disbudding and summer pruning consists in cutting 

 back to one leaf all laterals and sublaterals, and those 

 shoots which it is clearly seen will not be required. 

 Apricots produce spurs, and these should be left, as well 

 as much of the young wood worked in. With cherries it 

 may be said that so long as there is plenty of room in the 

 tree do not trouble them with a knife. If pruned, spur 

 back the side shoots to three or four buds. Plum trees 



are very apt to become gross growers, and should on indi- 

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