CHAPTER II. 



AT length, after a series of wearisome delays, due either to 

 the ill-will or stupidity of the Japanese Custom House 

 authorities it was difficult to say which the skipper, 

 accompanied by the American Consul, managed by threats or 

 guile to get possession of our papers, without which we 

 could not legally clear out of the port ; and within an hour 

 afterwards the anchor was weighed and the little Snowdrop, 

 as if in delight at her tardy freedom, spread her white wings 

 to the breeze and gaily threaded her tortuous way through 

 the surrounding junks and sampans. The breeze freshened 

 as we left our anchorage, and by standing well over to the 

 northern shore we soon drew away from under lee of the 

 mountain which protects the other side of the harbour, and 

 on whose slope the town of Hakodate is built. Ere long 

 the wind got steadier, though still too light to please us, 

 and we were abreast of the fort with nearly a mile of offing. 

 This fort, an ingenious arrangement of mud and stone, 

 which would not have stood a couple of rounds from a big 

 gun, was to us an object of considerable anxiety, for so 

 numerous had been the obtacles thrown in our way by the 

 Japanese authorities obstacles which even Eastern pro- 

 crastination would scarcely account for that we were 

 almost forced to the conclusion that they, for some reason 

 of their own, had determined, if possible, to stop us 

 altogether; or, failing that, to delay us until the season was 

 so far advanced as effectually to mar the success of the 

 expedition. For it must be remembered that the islands 

 for which we were bound were surrounded in winter and 

 early spring by masses of ice, even as late as the month of 



