VOYAGE TO ALGERIA 163 



prosecution. These two men were chivalrous, and after 

 striking the last blow became friends forever. Our kind 

 and courteous reception at Gibraltar is a thing to be re- 

 membered with pleasure. 



On December 15 we committed ourselves to the Medi- 

 terranean. The views of Gibraltar with which we are 

 most acquainted represent it as a huge ridge; but its as- 

 pect, end on, both from the Spanish lines and from the 

 other side, is truly noble. There is a sloping bank of 

 sand at the back of the rock, which I was disposed to 

 regard simply as the debris of the limestone. I wished 

 to let myself down upon it, but had not the time. My 

 friend Mr. Busk, however, assures me that it is silica, 

 and that the same sand constitutes the adjacent neutral 

 ground. There are theories afloat as to its having been 

 blown from Sahara. The Mediterranean throughout this 

 first day, and indeed throughout the entire voyage to 

 Oran, was of a less deep blue than the Atlantic. Pos- 

 sibly the quantity of organisms may have modified the 

 color. At night the phosphoresence was startling, break- 

 ing suddenly out along the crests of the waves formed by 

 the port and starboard bows. Its strength was not uni- 

 form. Having flashed brilliantly for a time, it would 

 in part subside, and afterward regain its vigor. Several 

 large phosphorescent masses of weird appearance also 

 floated past. 



On the morning of the 16th we sighted the fort and 

 lighthouse of Marsa el Kibir, and beyond them the white 

 walls of Oran lying in the bight of a bay, sheltered by 

 dominant hills. The sun was shining brightly; during 

 our whole voyage we had not had so fine a day. The 

 wisdom which had led us to choose Oran as our place 



