VO YAGfi TO A LQKHIA ] 15 



vent. During dinner the same genial traits which appeared 

 in the morning were still more conspicuous. Thefreshness 

 of the governor's nature showed itself best when he spoke 

 of his old antagonist in arms, Mouravieff. Chivalry in 

 war is consistent with its stern prosecution. These two 

 men were chivalrous, and after striking the last blow be- 

 came friends forever. Our kind and courteous reception 

 at Gibraltar is a thing to be remembered with pleasure. 



On December 15 we committed ourselves to the Med- 

 iterranean. The views of Gibraltar with which we are 

 most acquainted represent it as a huge ridge; but its aspect, 

 end on, both from the Spanish lines and from the other 

 side, is truly noble. There is a sloping bank of sand at 

 the back of the rock, which I was disposed to regard sim- 

 ply as the debris of the limestone. I wished to let myself 

 down upon it, but had not the time. My friend Mr. Busk, 

 however, assures me that it is silica, and that the same 

 sand constitutes the adjacent neutral ground. There are 

 theories afloat as to its having been blown from Sahara. 

 The Mediterranean throughout this first day, and indeed 

 throughout the entire voyage to Oran, was of a less deep blue 

 than the Atlantic. Possibly the quantity of organisms may 

 have modified the color. At night the phosphorescence was 

 startling, breaking suddenly out along the crests of the 

 waves formed by the port and starboard bows. Its strength 

 was not uniform. Having flashed brilliantly for a time, it 

 would in part subside, and afterward regain its vigor. 

 Several large phosphorescent masses of weird appearance 

 also floated past. 



On the morning of the 16th we sighted the fort and 

 lighthouse of Marsa el Kihir, and beyond them the white 

 walls of Oran lying in the bight of a bay, sheltered by 

 dominant hills. The sun was shining brightly; during 

 our whole voyage we had not had so fine a day. The wis- 

 dom which had led us to choose Oran as our place of obser- 

 vation seemed demonstrated. A rather excitable pilot 

 came on board, and he guided us in behind the mole, 

 which had suffered much damage the previous year from 

 an unexplained outburst of waves from the Mediterranean. 

 Both port and bow anchors were cast in deep water. 

 With three huge hawsers the ship's stern was made fast to 

 three gun-pillars fixed in the mole; and here for a time the 

 Urgent rested from her labors. 



