Stove and Greenhouse Plants and Flowers 153 



kept for any signs of starvation, and a weak stimulant given at in- 

 tervals to keep the plants up to the mark. It does not pay to pot 

 rubbish. Soot and stable liquor are both excellent if well diluted for 

 this feeding. 



FINAL POTTING. For the final potting, 16's (9 in.) and 12's (10 in.) pots 

 are used, about 1 in. of crocks being laid over the holes. First place soil 

 in the bottom, ramming it firmly, then put the plant on top, placing it at 

 such a depth that the top will be covered J in., and the surface of the soil 

 1J in. from the top of the pot. Then it should be filled up gradually, an 

 even degree of pressure being maintained. Firm potting is most essential, 

 and it must be even throughout. It is as well to have some straw or 

 canvas handy in case of frosts, which are not unknown in June. No 

 water should be given till the plants show signs of flagging, when a good 

 soaking will be best for them. If the plants are potted properly, when the 

 pots are filled to the brim the water should take two or three minutes to 

 soak away. 



SUMMER QUARTERS. The plants must now be set out in their summer 

 quarters as soon as possible, the " incur veds " and the finer-rooted varieties 

 being given the warmest and driest positions. Well-sharpened hazel sticks, 

 5-6 ft. long, are best for staking; they should be inserted, after watering, 

 in a south-west position, as most winds blow from that quarter. Tying 

 should follow quickly on the staking, the raffia being passed once round 

 the stick to prevent slipping. Afterwards all is routine work watering, 

 tying, spraying, stopping, disbudding, and feeding. The latter should not 

 be necessary in most seasons till at least the middle of August, with the 

 compost recommended; but in the hot dry seasons it may be necessary to 

 start earlier. The colour of the foliage will reveal the plant's condition; 

 if it alters to a yellowish-green, and the foliage becomes smaller, feeding 

 is undoubtedly necessary. Little but often, and in as varied a form as 

 possible, is productive of the best results. Guano, liquid manure, cow 

 manure for hot dry soil, soot, any good chemical manure as advertised 

 for Chrysanthemums (always mixing the latter with three or four times 

 its bulk of soil), will provide a good range of "feed" or diet. The 

 foliage should be kept solid and firm, and of a good colour at all times. 

 Occasionally, in cold wet summers, some varieties, from no apparent cause, 

 will go almost yellow; as a rule, a dose of sulphate of iron 1 oz. to 

 1 gal. of water will cure this. When stopping, care should be taken to 

 take out merely the tip of the plant; some varieties are very sensitive 

 to hard stopping, and in any case the breaks are stronger from a small 

 stop. Weakly growths should always be removed; they are useless, and 

 any labour spent on them is money thrown away. If earwigs are pre- 

 valent, pots filled with hay should be placed on top of the sticks and 

 examined every day. 



HOUSING. This is usually started the second or third week in Sep- 

 tember. If possible, all houses should have sulphur burnt in them before 

 the Chrysanthemums go in, and should be thoroughly dry. Overcrowding 



