Stone Fruits: Cherries 123 



The method of planting adopted by the ordinary practical fruit grower 

 is to dig out a shallow hole 6 to 9 in. deep and about 3 or 4 ft. 

 in diameter, according to the length of the roots. Any injured roots 

 are then trimmed off with a sharp knife and the small fibrous roots are 

 spread out very carefully with the fingers, and the tree is placed firmly in 

 the centre of the hole. Some fine earth is shovelled on top of the roots 

 and carefully worked in among them. More earth is then shovelled 

 in and gently but firmly trodden down tightly, taking _care to bruise 

 the roots as little as possible in the process. 



The alternative method, due to the experiments of Mr. S. U. Pickering 1 

 upon the Duke of Bedford's Experimental Fruit Farm at Woburn, con- 

 sists in digging out a similar hole; but instead of carefully working the 

 soil in among the roots, as in the former method, the soil, after being 

 shovelled in a little at a time, is rammed down tightly with a heavy 

 rammer, the last shovelful of soil only being put loosely upon the 

 rammed and puddled soil beneath. 



Careful experiments have shown that in the former method, even 

 with the greatest care, many of the old roots die, and it is certain that 

 practically all the delicate root tips are destroyed, and it is these root 

 tips alone that serve to absorb plant food from the soil. On the other 

 hand, new roots do not develop freely in the loose soil. Thus in the 

 older method the roots neither absorb much nutriment from the soil nor 

 do they hold the tree securely in the loose soil. 



By Pickering's method, on the other hand, the majority of the finer 

 roots are killed at once, but new roots quickly develop in the firm soil, 

 and, as soon as they have grown outside the circle of puddled soil, begin 

 to absorb nutriment to feed the tree. In the firm soil also the roots 

 support the tree more effectually. This method, though apparently so 

 ridiculous to the practical grower, is based upon the most accurate experi- 

 ments. These have shown that in nearly all cases trees so planted grow 

 much more rapidly than those planted upon orthodox lines. 



After the trees have been planted they should be supported for the 

 first few years of their life by being tied to a. stake, which is set in 

 the ground close to the tree. Care must be taken to see that the stake 

 does not rub against the bark of the tree. For this reason the stake 

 should be perfectly straight, and should be driven into the ground upon 

 the side of the tree from which the strongest winds come; this is usually 

 the west side. The best method of fixing the tree to the stake is by 

 means of straw bands, which must be renewed at least once a year. 

 If the trees are bound with string, over a padding of sacking, this opera- 

 tion of renewing the bonds is likely to be neglected, and the bark will 

 be injured by the string. 



Management of Cherry Orchards. The management of the orchard 

 subsequent to planting depends to a certain extent upon whether the 

 land is arable or pasture. If the trees are planted in a hop garden, as 



1 Fifth and Ninth Reports of the Woburn Experimental Fruit Farm. 



