122 



THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 



Asparagus continued. 



depends on the size of garden, and the class of " grass " 

 desired. When very large and fine stocks are the object in 

 view, the best results will accrue if the plants are fully a 

 yard apart each way ; but this means a comparatively small 

 crop. A good plan is to make the beds 3ft. wide, planting 

 two rows, at a distance of 1ft. from each other, and allowing 

 18in. between each plant, placing them in alternate order. 

 An 18in. alley should be allowed between the beds. The 

 roots used for making the beds should be one year old, and 

 fresh from the ground. In planting, pull out a wide drill 

 with a hoe, or other tool, to the depth of about Sin. or 4in., 

 and spread out the roots all round. Carefully shake the 

 soil in amongst the roots, and, if dry, apply some water 

 through a coarse-rosed watering pot, to settle the earth 

 around them. At intervals, as necessary, give other water- 

 ings till September, when they should be discontinued. 

 At all times, keep the beds free from weeds, removing 

 them by the hand to prevent injury to the crowns of 

 the plants. If the ground is good, no liquid manure will 

 be needed the first year. As soon as the foliage turns 

 yellow, cut it off, cleanly rake over the beds, and leave till 

 about January, when a top-dressing of from lin. to Sin. of 

 thoroughly rotted manure may lie applied with advantage. 

 At the end of February, rake off the bed all loose straw or 



FIG. 160. ASPARAGUS, Crown for Lifting. 



other debris, and throw on them a little of the soil from 

 the alleys, raking down, and finishing off the edges squarelj 

 and neatly. During this and succeeding years, apply 

 liquid manure and clear water, from time to time, as 

 required; and, provided the manure is not of too great 

 strength, there is scarcely any limit to its application ; but 

 m many instances, beds which have only received an annual 

 dressing have given a good return. Each year they must 

 be cut over and dressed as before described, but care must 

 be taken to keep them flat on the surface, otherwise the 

 plants will die out for want of moisture. When the pro- 

 ice appears, the beds should be kept cut over until the 

 30th of June, after which, cutting should cease, or they will 

 be rendered comparatively unproductive. Cutting can 

 commence the second or third year, or as soon as there is 

 any "grass" worth taking. Several methods of growing 

 these plants could be cited, but that which we have recom 

 mended will be found most satisfactory. 



tv/v-fV Plant J 3 are ralsed by S0wing seeds k rows across 

 the kitchen garden, or selected quarter, about the month of 

 April. The seedlings make a growth, and form good plants 

 during the first season. In March or April of the following 

 Year, or the year after, they may be removed, and planted 



Asparagus continued. 



out permanently, as already alluded to. Many cultivators 

 prefer growing their own plants from seed ; because during 

 the transit of the roots from any distance to where they are 

 to be grown, a frequent and injurious exhaustion takes 

 place, and particularly so when they are carelessly packed. 

 Forcing. Asparagus can, if properly treated, be obtained 

 from December onwards ; and at Christmas time the 

 produce is very valuable; but, in order to obtain it 

 at this season, it will be necessary to resort to forcing. 

 Prepare some beds to secure a lasting heat, and on these 

 place about Sin. of ordinary garden soil, not very stiff. Then 

 take the roots, and place them crown upwards, and mode- 

 rately close together, shaking the soil well amongst the 

 roots, and covering about a couple of inches deep. Water 

 well, to settle the whole, and put on the lights, allowing a 

 little ventilation, to let out any steam which may arise. 

 Unless the weather be very cold indeed, give a little air at 

 all times, and only cover the lights in actual frost. Prom 

 time to time, apply fresh linings of hot manure, and in cold 

 rains, or wind, cover the outsides of the frames with old sacks, 

 or other things which will keep in the heat. A regular and 

 steady temperature of GOdeg. will force this plant with 

 better results than a higher one. Houses that are fitted with 

 hot-water pipes to give bottom heat can be used equally as 

 well as manure beds, and so long as the soil is 

 kept moist, the heat thus obtained is as good 

 as any for the purpose, and much less trouble 

 than fermenting materials. To keep up a 

 regular supply, a succession of beds will be 

 necessary. Asparagus can be forced, or rather 

 forwarded, in pots or boxes, in a warm green- 

 house or vinery, and, of course, when the plants 

 are done with, they can be cast away. We 

 give an illustration (Pig. 160) of a bearing 

 crown fit for gentle forcing ; but, of course, it 

 must not be left so bare of earth as appears 

 here, which is done for the purpose of clear- 

 ness. 



Varieties. Connover's Colossal, and Giant, 

 are the most esteemed. Strains are frequently 

 largely advertised as improvements on the 

 sorts above-mentioned, and the charges are 

 higher accordingly. The difference may be 

 generally attributed to the culture the plants 

 receive more than to an improved variety. 

 When saving seed for home sowing, they 

 should be ^aken from the strongest growths, 

 or deterioration will ensue. 



A. sethiopicus ternliolins (ternate). fl. white, in 

 shortly-stalked racemes, very profuse. August. I, 

 false ones in threes, flattened, narrow, linear ; prickles soli- 

 tary, reversed ; branches angular. A. 30ft. South Africa, 1872. 

 A greenhouse evergreen. 



A. Bronssoneti (Broussonet's).' JL very small, succeeded by 

 small red berries. May. I., lower ones solitary, the others ter- 

 nate, lin. long, needle-shaped, persistent, distant, glaucescent- 

 stipules with reflected spines at the base. Summer. Stem 

 tapering, streaked, shrubby. A. 10ft. Canary Islands, 1822. A 

 very pretty hardy climber. 



A. Cooper! (Cooper's). /. axillary, one to three, from the same 

 nodes as the fake leaves ; perianth cream-coloured, one line long. 

 April and May. I. minute, deltoid, scariose, reddish-brown ; false 

 leaves six to fifteen to a node, subulate, moderately firm, lin. 

 to fin. long, spreading or ascending, h. 10ft. to 12ft. Africa, 1862 

 A greenhouse climber, with a shrubby terete main stem, liin. to 

 2in. thick at the base, sending out crowds of spreading branches, 

 which bear abundant slender, firm, alternate branchlets ; nodes of 

 branches and branchlets, furnished with distinct red-brown, subu- 

 late prickles, those of the main steins Jin. long, deflexed, but not 

 curved. 



A. decumbens (decumbent).* Stem unarmed, decumbent, much 

 branched ; branches wavy ; leaves setaceous, in threes. Cape of 

 Good Hope, 1792. A greenhouse evergreen herbaceous perennial. 



A. falcatus (hooked-leaved). I. fascicled, linear, falcate; branches 

 round; prickles solitary, recurved; peduncles one-flowered, 

 clustered, h. 3ft India, 1792. A greenhouse evergreen peren- 



A. officinalis (officinal). Common Asparagus. JL greenish- 

 white, drooping. August. I. setaceous, fasciculate, flexible. 



