AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF HORTICULTURE. 



219 



Budding 1 continued. 



a transverse incision made in the bark, the former abont lin. 

 long. Next, the End should be prepared, removing half the 

 leaf (see Fig. 288). Hold the branch with the left hand, and 

 pass the knife from abont iin. below, gradually upwards 

 and inwards under the Bud, bringing it out in a similar way 

 at a somewhat shorter distance above. A portion of wood 

 will also be taken out, and this is generally removed the 

 opposite way to that in which the Bud has been cut. By 

 skilful Budders, it is removed by a sort of twitch from 

 either end. Great care must be taken not to pull out the 

 base or root of the Bud at the same time, as this would 

 render it useless. Should the whole come out together, 

 leaving a hollow place under the eye of the Bud, it must be 

 thrown away, and another prepared. The Bud being ready, 

 loosen the bark at the point where the incisions meet, with 

 the ivory knife handle, and insert it by means of the piece 

 of leaf attached. It must then be tied in with soft 

 matting or bast, to exclude air, but not tight enough to 

 injure the bark. Shading from bright sun is advisable for 

 a few days afterwards, and, as soon as the union takes 

 place, the ties must be frequently examined, and loosened 

 if necessary. Some prefer Budding late in the season, in 

 order that the Bud may remain dormant during the winter, 

 and breaking stronger the following spring. Occasionally, 

 Buds are inserted in spring, just at the commencement of 

 growth. The stocks of the Summer-budded trees should 

 only be allowed a moderate amount of foliage during the 

 autumn, and should be cut back to the established Bud 

 before growth commences in spring. 



Square and Circular Shield-budding consists in cutting 

 out a piece of bark of either shape from the stock, and 

 inserting another piece of exactly the same size, containing 

 a Bud, and covering with a bandage, or piece of sticking 

 plaster, all except the eye. This mode is seldom made use 

 of. Inverted T or Shield-budding is preferred in the south 

 of France for propagating Orange-trees, but is not other- 

 wise much used. The only difference is that the transverse 

 incision is made below, instead of above, the other, and the 

 Bud inserted upwards, making it fit with the bark at the 

 point where the stock is cut across. 



Flute-budding is sometimes used, and answers well for 

 some trees (see Fig. 289). A cylinder of bark is removed 



FIG. 289. 



from the stock, and one of a similar size from the scion, 

 containing Buds, is fitted in its place, being carefully made 

 air-tight by means of a bandage or grafting wax. Some 

 prefer splitting the bark, as shown in the illustration, j 

 and laying it over the tube or cylinder; but the parts ; 

 cannot be fitted so well as when it is removed. 



Ring Budding. By this mode, it is not necessary to cut 

 off the top of the stock. A ring of bark may be removed 

 from any convenient part (see Fig. 290 b) and replaced with 

 one containing eyes (see Fig. 290 a). The latter should be 

 taken from a little larger branch than the stock, as the bark 

 could then be made to fit better. As in Flute -budding, air 

 must be excluded by means of adhesive paper and bandages 

 or grafting wax. 



Budding operations may be performed at any time 

 during the season ; but dull cloudy weather, and morning 

 or evening, are most suitable. If the branch, containing 



Budding 1 continued. 



Buds, cannot be obtained as required for use, the ends may 

 be placed in water, to keep them fresh; but unnecessary 

 delay should be avoided. 



Stocks for Budding upon. For the Cherry, the Wild 

 Gean, and seedlings from the Morello, make capital stocks 

 for tall trees and those of moderate growth; and the 

 Mahaleb, or Perfumed Cherry, for small trees for pots, 

 bushes, pyramids, or cordons. For the Plum, the Mussel', 

 Myrobalan, Magnum Bonum, St. Julian, &c., are mostly 

 used for stocks, the Myrobalan being best for small trees. 

 Peaches and Nectarines are generally budded on the 

 Mussel, St. Julian, or Myrobalan Plums; the last are best 

 for dwarfs. The Apricot is budded on the Mussel or 



Myrobalan Plums, for small plants ; and the St. Julian Plum 

 for standards. In France, the Damas Noir, or Black 

 Damask, and the Cerisette, are also used. They should all 

 be raised from seeds, and not from suckers. Seeds for 

 raising plants for stocks may be sown as soon as ripe ; but 

 where quantities are used, the stones are thrown into 

 heaps, so as to slightly ferment during winter. In the 



no. 291. 



spring, they are sown in drills or beds, and transplanted 

 the next year in rows 2ft. or 3ft. apart, and lOin. or 12in. 

 from plant to plant. The dwarfs are generally budded 

 the second year, and the standards the third or fourth. 

 Dwarf trees are budded from within a few inches of the 



