AN ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF HORTICULTURE. 



269 



Carmichselia continued. 



C. australis (southern).* fi. lilac ; racemes simple, rising from 

 the denticulations of the branches. May, September. I. with 

 three to seven obcordate leaflets. Branches compressed, h. 

 2ft. to 4ft. New Zealand, 1823. (B. R. 912.) 



CARNATION (Dianthus Caryophyllus). These charm- 

 ing flowers were, at one time, universal favourites, and 

 the varieties were far more numerous than now. In the 

 early days of gardening, they were often called Gilliflowers 

 as weU as Carnations. For some unaccountable reason, 

 after 1850, they were seriously neglected, and many of 

 the old varieties were entirely lost to cultivation ; they 

 are now, however, regaining popular favour, and are 

 not only cultivated by specialists, but scarcely any garden 

 can afford to be without some. There are no hardy 

 flowers more deserving general cultivation than Carna- 

 tions, as they present charming diversity and brilliancy 

 of colouring, with a delicious perfume. Their stateliness 

 of growth, and value in a out state, are also charac- 

 teristics greatly in their favour. 



PROPAGATION may be effected by layers, pipings, or 

 by seed. 



Layers. This method is far more generally adopted than 

 any other, whether the plants are grown in pots, borders, 

 or beds. The end of July, or the beginning of August, is 

 the best time for layering. Before commencing, a compost 

 of leaf soil, loam, and sharp sand, in nearly equal propor- 

 tions, should be prepared. Some pegs can be made of 

 bracken stems, or other material of a like nature, which 

 will decay in the soil. A layer of the compost, about 2in. 

 in thickness, should be placed around each plant, as in this 

 the young plants will root. The shoots selected should be 

 denuded of a few of their leaves at the base of the young 

 wood, and a slit must be made from this point upwards, 

 extending through a joint of the bare stem, so that a 

 tongue is formed. The layers should next be carefully 

 pegged down in their place, keeping the incision open. 

 About lin. of soil must then be placed over the layered 

 part to a little beyond the peg, and the whole well watered. 

 If dry weather ensue, it will be necessary to give occa- 

 sional waterings ; but care must be taken that the shoots 

 are not denuded of soil. Plants layered in pots should be 

 placed in the open till they are rooted, which usually takes 

 a month or five weeks. See also Layering. 



Pipings. Where shoots are too short or too numerous for 

 layering, or where they become broken by accident, it is 

 desirable to propagate by pipings ; such shoots may be 

 removed before the time for layering. For this mode of 

 propagation, it is necessary to have a slight hotbed, and on 

 it to put 4in. or 5in. of fine light soil, covered with silver 

 sand. The pipings must be long enough to have a tolerably 

 firm base, and they must either be taken with a heel, or 

 cut off at a joint, and firmly inserted in the soil. After a 

 good watering, the light should be placed upon the frame, 

 and the pipings must be kept close, and shaded. The soil 

 must be maintained moderately moist till the roots are 

 formed, but damp must be guarded against. 



Seed. Propagation of Carnations by seed is a very 

 interesting operation. By this means, new and excellent 

 varieties are raised. Both single and double-flowered 

 plants are produced from a packet of seed ; the latter can 

 be selected, and the best perpetuated by layering. The 

 principal nurserymen supply seed of good quality, or anyone 

 with a good strain may save his own. Hybridising may 

 be effected with the best flowers in each class, so as to 

 secure seed which will probably produce new kinds. The 

 most suitable time for sowing is in April or May, and the 

 best place a slight hotbed, or in a greenhouse. The pans 

 should be properly drained, then filled with fresh sandy 

 loam and leaf soil to within an inch or so of the top, making 

 it tolerably firm, and the surface afterwards levelled, before 

 sowing the seed. This should be scattered evenly over the 

 soil, and then slightly covered with a little of the potting 

 mixture, finely sifted. To keep the whole uniformly moist, 



Carnation continued. 



a piece of glass should be laid on the top of the pan, till the 

 seeds germinate; after which, the covering should be re- 

 moved, and the pans placed in an airy position near the 

 glass. As soon as the seedlings can be handled, they should 

 be pricked out in beds, previously prepared by mixing in 

 some fresh loam and rotten manure with the ordinary soil 

 and watered when necessary, to assist them in their growth! 

 By the end of September, the plants will be sufficiently 

 large to transfer to their permanent position in beds or 

 borders, where they will bloom the following season. 



GENERAL CULTIVATION. Winter Treatment. In favoured 

 positions, many kinds will withstand the winter, especially 

 if the soil is light and well drained. Generally, however, 

 it is necessary to provide accommodation, for a portion of 

 the stock at least, in cold frames ; and when a choice col- 

 lection is grown, it would be useless to attempt to keep it 

 intact without winter protection. About September, when 

 the layers or pipings are well rooted, they should be potted 

 singly or in pairs, the former in 3in., and the latter in 4in. 

 pots, according to the size of the plants. The potting com- 

 post should consist of loam two parts, leaf soil one part, and 

 sand one part, with a fair amount of drainage. After pot- 

 ting, a good watering should be given, and the frame kept 

 close for a week or two, until root-action is resumed, when 

 air may be freely admitted. All through the winter, full 

 advantage should be taken of fine weather to give all the 

 air possible, by tilting, or entirely removing, the lights. If 

 bleak winds prevail, it will be best to tilt the lights in an 

 opposite direction to the wind. Until the beginning of 

 February, when, as a rule, the plants begin to grow, great 

 attention must be paid to watering. They must be kept 

 somewhat dry rather than excessively wet, as the greatest 

 enemy in winter is damp. If kept too wet, a disease 

 known as " Spot " is likely to appear in the foliage, which 

 may prove very prejudicial. Watering those that are dry, 

 with a small-spouted can, so as to avoid unduly wetting 

 the foliage, is preferable to using a rose. After February, 

 they may have more water ; in fact, it will then be very 

 unwise to allow them to get at all dry. 



Cultivation in Pots. The end of February, or the be- 

 ginning of March, is. as a rule, the best time for potting ; 

 but, to some extent, this must be regulated by the season 

 and condition of the plants. Pots lOin. in diameter are 

 large enough to accommodate a pair of good strong plants, 

 while weaker growing ones may be placed in 9in., or even 

 Sin. pots. These should be well drained, and a layer of leaf 

 soil or rotten manure placed over the crocks. The follow- 

 ing is an excellent potting compost: Two parts good fibrous 

 sandy loam, not broken too finely, one part leaf mould, and 

 one part good rotten old hotbed manure, to which may be 

 added a good sprinkling of coarse, gritty sand, from a river 

 if it can be procured ; well mix the whole together, but do 

 not pass through a riddle. Pot the plants moderately firm, 

 and sufficiently deep to allow of the layers being got to the 

 surface without fear of breaking off. After potting, place 

 back in the frame again, and keep well ventilated, until the 

 plants show signs of fresh growth, when they may be stood 

 outside in an airy position. Watering must be very care- 

 fully performed for some time after potting, and staking 

 the leading growths must not be delayed, or they will be 

 broken with the wind. If large flowers are required, the 

 buds should be thinned in their early stages, and means 

 taken to prevent the splitting of the calyx. Should there 

 be signs of this, make two or three incisions in the opposite 

 side, and fasten a piece of matting round it, which will 

 materially assist to keep the petals together. In order to 

 produce fine flowers for exhibition or other purposes, it will 

 be necessary to thin the buds severely, leaving only the 

 primary or finest ones to develop. For flowering, the 

 plants are best removed to a cool greenhouse, where an 

 abundance of air can be afforded; this protection will 

 greatly lengthen the period of blossoming, and materially 

 assist to bring out the quality of the flowers. Where this 



