AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF HORTICULTURE. 



321 



Chrysanthemum continued. 



practice involves no waste of either time or space. Which- 

 ever plan is adopted, the plants should be placed near the 

 glass, and shifted on successively as they require, when the 

 roots reach the side of the ball. The final shift should be 

 given not later than the middle of July ; for although it is 

 most important to keep the roots in full vigour during the 

 early stages of growth, it is equally or more so that they 

 should fill the pots with roots before the flowering season 

 arrives. In hot, dry places, an eastern or western aspect 

 suits Chrysanthemums better than a southern one for 

 summer quarters ; but in colder neighbourhoods, a position 

 facing south would be more suitable. Partial shade from 

 the mid-day sun is desirable. The pots should be plunged to 

 the rim, taking care to provide free egress for the water 

 under them. Chrysanthemums require enormous quantities 

 of water, though few plants sooner show the injurious 

 effects of sour or waterlogged soil. The surface of the 

 pots should also be mulched over, as a protection to the 

 roots against excessive heat and drought, and also as a 

 means of increasing the supply of nutriment. During bright 

 weather, the plants may need watering three or four times 

 a day, and must on no account be allowed to flag for want 

 of it. In good soil, they seldom need much manure water 

 until September, and then that made from cow or sheep 

 dung is the best. 



Soil. This can scarcely be too rich when the plants are 

 strong and placed in the flowering pots. Good loam, heavy 

 rather than light, should be used in about equal portions 

 with rotten manure, including some cow dung. A little 

 soot intermixed with this tends to give the leaves a dark 

 green colour, and materially assists them. Crushed bones 

 are sometimes used for drainage, with a large crock over 

 the hole. These last a long time, and afford some nourish- 

 ment to the plants as well; but where not obtainable, a 

 few more crocks should be added instead. Pots of 9in. in 

 diameter are of sufficient size to grow large plants, if the 

 latter are well watered, and fed with liquid manure after 

 the flowers are set. It is much preferable to adopt this 

 plan than to use larger pots without feeding the plants, 

 as the soil becomes exhausted in large pots before the time 

 when the greatest nourishment is required. Useful deco- 

 rative subjects may be obtained in 48-sized pots if cuttings 

 are put in about the beginning of August, five or six in 

 each, and are not afterwards pinched. The soil should be 

 used as rough as possible, without sifting, and the plants 

 potted firmly by means of hand rammers. Less manure 

 should be given when the plants are young and are being 

 grown on in small pots. 



Training will greatly depend on the size or descrip- 

 tion of plant required. Standard specimens should be 

 grown to the desired height before being stopped ; while 

 those intended for bush specimens should be pinched 

 evenly, occasionally removing the points of all shoots as 

 they grow. This must not be practised after the middle of 

 July. The flowers also need thinning ; and persons who 

 grow for exhibition sometimes thin off all buds, except the 

 terminal one on the shoot. By thus concentrating most 

 or all the force of the plant into its terminal flowers, 

 these may be grown to a very large size. Chrysanthe- 

 mums readily conform to any style of training. They 

 develop naturally into a dense bush; or may readily be 

 grown into standards, from 3ft. to 9ft. high. For exhibi- 

 tion, they are sometimes severely trained, by the aid of 

 hoops, stakes, and ties, into flat or hemispherical speci- 

 mens, with the flowers laid flat on a level surface of 

 foliage. The shoots, being fairly flexible, can be trained, 

 when young, in any form desired. The Pompones yield 

 most readily to flat or level training ; while the Japanese 

 are most untractable. All staking and training should be 

 completed some weeks before the flowers appear, so that 

 the latter may have time to readjust themselves before 

 opening, and look more natural. 



Housing and Flowering. All Chrysanthemums intended 



Chrysanthemum continued. 



for flowering indoors should be under glass, in the autumn, 

 before the appearance of frost. During mild weather, 

 afterwards, they cannot be kept too open or cool ; nor can 

 the transition from the outside to the house be made too 

 gradual and easy. Any sudden change of temperature or 

 condition causes the leaves to become yellow ; and this not 

 only disfigures, but weakens the plants and flowers. While 

 Chrysanthemums must never be stinted for water, less 

 will be needed when in flower than when in full growth. 

 They will do well in a cool greenhouse, conservatory, or 

 window garden. Some cultivators arrange them against 

 walls, where they are simply placed according to their 

 height, with a temporary glass case over them; and this 

 mode shows off the flowers remarkably well. When placed 

 so that the merits and form of each plant may be seen, 

 Chrysanthemums are most effective. After flowering, the 

 plants may be cut down to within Gin. of the ground, and 

 wintered in a cold frame, or other frost-proof quarters. 

 Some growers, however, merely take cuttings off, and 

 throw the old plants away; others keep the younger 

 plants, and grow them into larger specimens the next 

 year; while many plant them out in the open borders, 

 or against walls, to take their chance of flowering, should 

 season or locality prove favourable. 



Outdoor Culture. As an autumnal flowering plant, 

 success would be much more general were Chrysanthe- 

 mums specially cultivated for this purpose. When they 

 are as carefully grown in the open as in pots, they often 

 flower almost equally well. Good results are frequently 

 obtained by keeping them in a very open place throughout 

 the summer, at distances of 2ft. or 3ft. apart, freely exposed 

 to the sun and air all round ; and then, towards the end 

 of September, lifting carefully and potting them, keeping 

 close, and shaded for a time afterwards. 

 C.argentenm (silver-leaved)." yt.-Aad white. July. I. bipinnat* 



hoary ; leaflets acute, entire. Stem one-headed, simple, h. 1ft 



Levant, 1731. Hardy herbaceous perennial. 



Fio. 441. CHRYSANTHEMUM CARIIUTUM. 



2T 



