432 



THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 



Dahlia continued. 



is proposed to plant in masses, the ground should be 

 trenched, and manure added if the soil is naturally poor. 

 It is not advisable to apply strong manure in spring, as 

 over-luxuriance in foliage would thereby be encouraged at 

 the expense of the production of flowers. A light, open 



FIG. 602. FLOWERING SHOOT OF DAHLIA COCCINEA. 



position, free from the shade of trees, is best; but sur- 

 rounding shrubs or dwarf plants are often an advantage 

 to Dahlias by protecting them from high winds. Mixed 

 flower borders, backed up with shrubs, are good positions, 

 and a fine effect may be produced in autumn, especially 

 with the best of the Single varieties, by planting in 

 masses, such as large circular beds. The Dwarf Pom- 

 pone section is best adapted for use in smaller beds, and 

 these, or others, may be kept still lower by pegging 

 down when young. Planting out should not be attempted 

 before the beginning of June, in most localities, as the 



FIG. 603. FLOWER-HEAD OP DAHLIA IMPERIALIS. 

 least exposure to frost causes much injury. The heights 

 of the different varieties must be ascertained, and their 



Dahlia continued. 



respective positions fixed accordingly. From 3ft. to 6ft. 

 apart is none too much space for strong, tall-growing 

 varieties. Seedlings, or late-struck cuttings, will not 

 require quite so much. Water well after planting, and 

 apply a temporary stake to each, for a time. Dahlias are 

 much benefited by frequent applications of water during 

 summer, and by liquid manure after the buds are formed. 

 If exhibition blossoms are required, the shoots and flower 

 buds must be thinned out in the younger stages of growth ; 

 but otherwise it will be unnecessary to do so. Permanent 

 stakes of about 4ft. in height, must replace the others when 

 the plant* are established and growing. The most useful 

 Dahlias to cultivate for cut flowers are the Single and 

 Pompone sections; and the most distinct and highly- 

 coloured sorts should be selected. 



Storing. Dahlias may remain in the ground until the 

 tops are destroyed by frost, when they should be cut 

 down to within 6in. of the ground, and afterwards lifted. 



FIG. 604. FLOWER-HEAD AND LEAF OF DAHLIA JUAREZII. 

 Eemove as much soil as possible with a pointed stick, 

 attach the label of each to the stem, and store away in 

 a dry, cool, frost-proof place. Looking over occasionally 

 to remove any part of the roots that may be damping, is 

 all that is required until starting again the following 

 spring. Young plants, raised either from seeds or cut- 

 tings, will supply large roots in the autumn of the same 



INSECTS. Earwigs are most destructive to Dahlias, 

 by eating out the young points of the shoots, and after- 

 wards the florets, before they are developed. Small flower- 

 pots, half-filled with dry moss, and inverted on the tops 

 of the stakes, or hollowed bean stalks placed amongst 

 the branches, are the best-known traps. They should 

 be examined each morning, and any Earwigs found therein 

 destroyed. 



A list of the species, and the most striking of what may 

 be called the " botanical " varieties, is given below. 

 D. bidentlfolla (bidentate-leaved). A synonym of D. coccinea. 

 D. coccinea (scarlet). Jl.-heads with scarlet ray-florets and yellow 

 disk ; outer involucral bracts five, reflexed ; inner series numerous. 

 Autumn. I. pinnate, scabrous, h. 3ft. to 4ft. SYNS. D. bidenti- 

 folia and Georgina, Cervantesii. See Fig. 602. (B. M. 762.) 

 D. crocata (yellow). A synonym of D. variabUit. 

 D. excelsa (tall). JL-heads pale lilac-purple, 4in. across. 

 I. doubly pinnatipartite, 2*ft. long by about 2ft. broad. Stem 

 perennial, very thick, becoming woody, growing to the height of 



