AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF HORTICULTURE. 



159 



Hyacintlms continued. 



quantities. * Hyacinths should be grown in pots for 

 forcing and for exhibition ; the single varieties succeed 

 well in glasses of water, and are ornamental thus treated 

 for room decoration. For a spring display in the open 

 ground, Hyacinths are unexcelled, especially when arranged 

 in flower beds, or anywhere in a mass. 



The Roman Hyacinth. The early Roman Hyacinth is 

 an extremely useful variety, with pure white flowers that 

 may be had by November, as the bulbs arrive much earlier 

 than those of the large-flowering sorts. Place three or 

 four in a 5in. pot, just covering them with soil ; afterwards 

 water, and cover the whole up outside with about 6in. of 

 ashes. When the pots become filled with roots, they 

 should be taken into heat, and growth in the tops en- 

 couraged by frequent syringings. Some growers of this 

 variety on a large scale, force the bulbs in boxes, and pot 

 up just before coming into flower. This root disturbance 

 does not injure the flowers much, when they are nearly 

 fully developed ; and the bulbs, so severely forced, are 

 not of much further use. It is well to keep a portion 

 of the stock for potting, along with the large - flowering 

 sorts, as the early Roman is always much appreciated, and 

 is far more useful for cutting, and for any decoration in 

 winter. 



Culture in Pots. Hyacinth bulbs should be secured as 

 soon as possible after they arrive in autumn. The large- 

 flowered varieties, which usually come over in September, 

 should be potted singly in 5in. or Gin. pots, according 

 to the size of bulb, and be covered with ashes in the 

 same way as described above for the early Roman. The 

 chief use of ashes is to keep the bulbs from rising when 

 their new roots come in contact with the soil. A good 

 potting compost is fibry loam and manure in about equal 

 parts, with some river sand intermixed. The pots should 

 be filled lightly, and the bulb pressed into the soil, so 

 that its base is firmly fixed. This plan is much better 

 than partially filling the pot and afterwards covering the 

 bulb. Before subjecting any plants to heat, they should 

 be well rooted, and the crowns just beginning to expand. 

 The large-flowered varieties may be had in flower by the 

 end of December, if they are potted early and carefully 

 forced. Where a succession is the principal aim, rather 

 than a large quantity at one time, it is best to divide 

 the number of bulbs, and pot at intervals of about six 

 weeks from August till the end of November. In winter, 

 forcing should be conducted in a structure where all 

 possible light is admitted; but, later in spring, any warm 

 house will do, if not kept too much shaded. In March 

 and April, the principal stock should be retarded, by 

 placing them in a house or pit with a north aspect. 

 Plenty of water should always be applied, and manure 

 water is beneficial after the flower-spikes appear. 



Culture in Glasses. Single varieties of Hyacinths are 

 better adapted for culture in glasses than double ones. 

 Special glasses are made, so that the bulb need not be- 

 come submerged in the water. Soft rain-water should be 

 used for filling them, a little charcoal placed in it, and 

 some of the best bulbs selected. They should be inserted 

 in moss, so that the base is just in contact with the 

 water, and be then kept in a cool, dark place, until roots 

 are emitted. A little additional water occasionally, and 

 a light position, will be all they afterwards require until 

 flowering. 



Outside Culture. Hyacinths grown in the open ground 

 need not be so large or choice as those cultivated under 

 glass. They succeed best in light soil and in a sunny 

 position. If the latter has been occupied by other plants 

 throughout the summer, some manure should be added, 

 and the soil well dug, before planting in October. For 

 securing a display in flower beds in spring, the bulbs 

 should be inserted about 9in. apart and 3in. deep, care 

 being taken to place them all at an equal depth. They 

 should be protected, if the weather is severe, especially 



Hyacinthus continued. 



after the flower-shoots appear. If a covering of new 

 cocoa-nut fibre is placed all over the bed before any of 

 the flowers expand, it tends to heighten the effect they 

 produce, and preserves them from being splashed by heavy 

 storms. The bulbs, if left alone to ripen, or if lifted and 

 dried slowly, may be used another year ; but they generally 

 deteriorate, and are not so good as others fresh imported. 

 Any that are forced in pots are of little use afterwards, 

 except for planting in mixed or shrubbery borders outside. 

 Neat stakes are requisite for many varieties, to prevent 

 the flowers being broken off by their own weight. The 

 quality of Hyacinth bulbs for any purpose is a matter 

 of material importance. Mere size is no criterion of 

 quality, soundness and density being the chief points. If 

 the bulbs are hard and heavy, in proportion to their size, 

 the production of good flowers may be confidently ex- 

 pected. 



H. amethystinus (amethystine-blue).* Spanish Hyacinth, fl. 



bright blue, drooping, unilateral or nearly so ; spikes loose, four 



to twelve-flowered ; bracts length of the pedicels. Spring. I. 



narrow, linear, as long as, or longer than, the flower-scape, h. 



4in. to 12in. South Europe, 1759. (B. M. 2425.) 

 H. candicans (white). A synonym of Galtonia candicans. 

 H. corymbosus (corymbose).* fl., perianth lilac-rose, i-in. long ; 



segments erecto-patent ; racemes clustered, four to nine-flowered ; 



FIG 248. HYACINXHUS ORIENTALIS. 



