AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF HORTICULTURE. 



509 



Orchard continued. 



represented in Orchards, in at least several of the Eng- 

 lish counties. . Speaking generally, Cherries are not of 

 much use to plant on a small scale, or even at all in 

 most parts, as standard trees, in the open. Temporary 

 protection cannot be afforded them, when thus situated, for 

 preventing injury to the flowers by spring frosts, and 

 great havoc is also caused by birds amongst the buds, 

 as well as amongst the ripe fruits. Where the trees 

 are known to succeed naturally in Orchards respecting 

 the first-named condition, they may be planted in suffi- 

 cient quantity to make it worth while having them looked 

 after when the fruits are ripening, and both seasons 

 would be greatly shortened by planting only one variety. 

 Plums (under which Damsons may also be included) 

 are limited in varieties suitable for culture in Orchards, 

 especially such as are laid down in grass, many of the 

 branches being situated so near the ground. Their 

 fruits are, however, much in demand, and, in seasons 

 when good crops can be secured, they usually prove 

 more remunerative than most other supplies of home- 

 grown Orchard produce. Damson-trees frequently attain 

 a good size, and bear prodigious crops in favourable 

 seasons; they should be planted rather close together, 

 as the heads do not usually spread much ; and, the 

 wood being rather brittle, is less likely to get broken 

 by heavy gales than if the trees were inserted as isolated 

 specimens. Nuts may also be included amongst Orchard 

 fruits, as they will succeed in nearly all situations and 

 localities if their blossoms of both sexes escape destruc- 

 tion by spring frosts. If, however, there are Squirrels, 

 or other depredators, about, it is of little use attempting 

 to grow Nuts; at any rate, not as a profitable crop. A 

 specimen or two of Quince-trees, and also of Medlars, 

 should be provided with a place, as, although their fruits 

 are not much in demand, a few are generally acceptable. 

 The trees are also in keeping with the other occupants 

 of an Orchard, and are, at least (apart from the use of 

 their fruits), distinct and ornamental subjects, on account 

 of their flowers and, in the case of the Medlar, beau- 

 tifully-coloured foliage in autumn. 



Soil and Situation. In the formation of an Orchard, 

 the first points for consideration are those of soil and 

 situation, the first-named being perhaps the most im- 

 portant of the two, although, in some respects, the 

 other is not of secondary consequence. Drainage is of 

 primary importance, and must be insured, either by a 

 subsoil of a gravelly nature, by the natural disposition 

 of the land, or by drains inserted specially for the pur- 

 pose. No fruit-trees will succeed properly if stagnant 

 water is allowed in or about the soil surrounding their 

 roots. Respecting different soils, there are few in which 

 the most important of Orchard fruits, Apples, will not 

 thrive to a greater or less extent, as evidenced by such 

 a quantity being grown, without special attention, in all 

 parts of the country. The best and most lasting results, 

 however, are obtained in well-drained land where the soil 

 is of a good depth, and somewhat strong. Light or 

 sandy soils tend to induce trees to bear good crops, but 

 only for a short period, compared with those of a more 

 holding nature. In some localities, there is little to choose 

 from ; but in others, great variation exists, even in a 

 very limited area. Where subsoils are gravelly, and, 

 consequently, naturally drained, it might, and most likely 

 would, be very unwise to insert pipes, as by them too 

 much water would be conducted away, and the trees, 

 unless the rainfall were unusually heavy, would be un- 

 able to withdraw sufficient moisture to meet their re- 

 quirements. The situation best suited for an Orchard is 

 a gentle slope to the south or south-west. It is not 

 advisable to select an eastern exposure, as, although 

 the early morning sun is most desirable for many 

 reasons, it frequently adds to the destruction, by 

 frost, of fruit blossoms in spring, by causing the 



Orchard continued. 



latter, .when frozen, to thaw too rapidly. Shelter is of 

 material importance, and, where it exists naturally, due 

 advantage should, if possible, be taken of the site, pro- 

 vided other conditions are favourable. Much may fre- 

 quently be done towards providing shelter to an Orchard, 

 by planting a belt of quick-growing forest-trees 

 Larch or Poplars, for instance at a safe distance away 

 on the north and eastern sides, whence destructive winds 

 proceed. These trees must not, however, be planted 

 close enough for their roots to impoverish the cultivated 

 ground. Orchard fruit-trees shelter each other to a cer- 

 tain degree when established, if they are not planted 

 too far apart. To get them up to this stage, some pro- 

 tection will invariably be necessary; and, should the site 

 be unfavourably situated in this respect, it must be pro- 

 vided, if only to the extent of planting a high hedge, to 

 serve as a break against rough, cold winds. Exposure 

 to full sun and light on the south side is recommended, 

 as it is important that the wood of fruit-trees in a 

 bearing state should be thoroughly ripened in summer 

 for the next year, as well as the fruit of the current 

 year. Spring frosts are far less injurious when the 

 blossoms are strong and the wood firm, than when both 

 are in the reverse condition. 



Planting. This operation will depend somewhat on 

 whether the land between the standard trees is to be 

 laid down in grass, or dug and occupied with other crops 

 and dwarf fruit-trees. If a piece of pasture land is 

 taken for converting into an Orchard, without destroying 

 the turf, it is most important that good-sized holes be 

 dug out, so that the roots may be spread carefully, to 

 their full length, in planting, and the soil moved for 

 a considerable space round further than the distance 

 to which they extend. Young trees would, however, 

 be likely to succeed better were the land for an 

 Orchard well broken up by deep ploughing, or, maybe, 

 on a large scale, by steam cultivation, previous to being 

 planted. The intervening space, to within a short dis- 

 tance of the trees, might then be annually cropped with 

 such things as Potatoes or Turnips, but not with grain 

 of any sort. As the trees get old enough for their 

 heads to overshadow crops beneath, their roots will also 

 have similarly extended, and the whole surface may then 

 be sown with grass seeds, and changed into pasture. 

 In tilled Orchards, where it is not intended to admit 

 cattle at any time, the land between standard trees may 

 be planted with others grown in bush or pyramid form, 

 or with those usually termed small fruits. Standard fruit- 

 trees for Orchards should have stems about 5ft. high, 

 and be planted from 16ft. to 20ft. apart. A greater dis- 

 tance than this is sometimes recommended; but, as a 

 rule, it is unnecessary, even for the admission of light 

 and air, and the trees do not shelter each other so much 

 as when they are somewhat closer together. November, 

 if weather permits, is, perhaps, the best season for plant- 

 ing Orchards ; but, if the operation cannot be conducted 

 at this season, any favourable time up to the end of 

 February may be selected, providing the weather is not 

 frosty. No fruit-tree should be planted too deeply in the 

 soil, with the idea of preventing its removal by the wind ; 

 a stake to each in the case of standards, at least must 

 be provided for this purpose. The same depth as that to 

 which the trees have previously been planted is usually 

 a fairly good guide say, from Sin. to 4in. of soil above 

 the roots. Any newly-planted fruit-tree, over which the 

 wind may have power, should, apart from being well 

 trodden in, be securely staked, either temporarily or 

 permanently, as the case may be ; a little hay or moss, 

 or a piece of old gutta-percha piping, should be placed 

 where each tie is made, to prevent the bark being 

 injured in tying, or afterwards by chafing. It is impos- 

 sible for young roots to obtain a hold, if the trees are 

 allowed to sway about, and break them off so soon as 



