512 



THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 



Orchard House continued. 



sufficient bone-dust or fine horn-shavings to be risible 

 when the bulk is mixed up. Trees that are in large 

 pots, and are healthy, do not absolutely need their 

 balls disturbed every year, beyond removing some old 

 soil off the surface, and replacing it with new. When- 

 ever the drainage is defective, or the roots or soil 

 in bad condition, the trees should be taken out, their 

 balls reduced with a pointed stick, and replaced in 

 clean, properly-drained pots of a similar, or, maybe, 

 even a smaller, size. Sufficient space must be allowed 

 above the ball for the large quantity of water required 

 in summer, and the soil should be rendered firm with 

 a stout hand-rammer. When top-dressing only is in- 

 tended, it may be practised in October with a stronger 

 compost than that described above for potting, namely, 

 more manure in proportion to the loam used ; but a 

 general overhaul is recommended earlier in the season, 

 and new drainage, clean pots, and fresh soil supplied to 

 the old (reduced) balls, with only few exceptions. Water 

 should be given very sparingly after re-potting, until 

 the injured roots shall have recovered somewhat the 

 check experienced; it is most important, however, that 

 the compost, when used, be suitably moist and work- 

 able. Before the flower-buds are so far expanded in 

 spring as to show their colour inside, it will be advi- 

 sable to stand the trees apart, as, if this is delayed, 

 there is great danger of a large number of the former 

 getting broken off. This appears a small matter to 

 refer to; yet, from its apparent unimportance, it is fre- 

 quently neglected, and many blossoms become broken 

 off in consequence. It is almost an impossibility to 

 separate entangled branches without such a result. 



Thus much having been said respecting the culture of 

 Orchard-house trees in pots, a reference may now be 

 made to those planted out in a similar structure. First, 

 it will be necessary to prepare borders of soil suitable 

 for fruit-trees, instead of those of almost any descrip- 

 tion, which might answer well enough for pots to stand 

 upon. It is unnecessary to make borders of a great 

 depth ; 2ft. of soil above the drainage is usually quite 

 sufficient for such trees as may be recommended for 

 planting out, such as Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines. 

 The soil for borders must be somewhat tenacious, and 

 not be made over rich with manure. It should be 

 rendered quite firm, by being rammed a few days after 

 the trees have been planted and watered. It is im- 

 portant that fruit borders in Orchard Houses be allowed 

 to remain firm and hard on the surface ; the latter should 

 not be broken, except being very slightly forked, in 

 spring, to admit water all over alike. Surface roots are 

 numerous on healthy trees, and they must not be broken 

 off in spring, or there will be a great risk of the flowers 

 dropping off, instead of -etting. Mulchings of manure, 

 or top-dressings, may be applied to planted-out trees, in 

 summer, if they have heavy crops, and need help ; but 

 both should be avoided if there is evidence of the 

 branches or shoots being already too vigorous, and, con- 

 sequently, not likely to ripen well. Standard trees 

 are, generally, best suited for planting out; those 

 of pyramidal shape are soon liable to become uneven, 

 because of the sap flowing more towards the upper 

 branches and shoots, making them too gross, and render- 

 ing the lower ones weakly. This latter style of training 

 is most successfully practised in pots, and, if standards 

 are to be accommodated in borders, they should be 

 sufficiently wide apart to admit of some pot-trees being 

 arranged between. Standard Peaches and Nectarines are 

 not, as a rule, very satisfactory, unless their heads are 

 kept under proper management, and the shoots thinned 

 so as to admit sun and air amongst them for properly 

 ripening and colouring the fruit. Pear or Apple-trees 

 are apt to grow too vigorously for planting in an 

 Orchard House ; their roots should be restricted in large 



Orchard House continued. 



pots. Apricots succeed well as standards in Orchard 

 Houses. The border, when prepared for them, should 

 have a small portion of chalk intermixed, and some 

 would also be of service to trees of the Peach and 

 Nectarine. The soil should be made very firm, by 

 treading and ramming, and, above all, should not be 

 disturbed afterwards more than what is really necessary 

 for getting water to soak in properly. 



Methods of Training for Orchard-house Trees. The 

 two kinds of fruit favoured, perhaps, most extensively 

 with Orchard House protection, are Peaches and Necta- 

 rines. It has already been stated that, for planting in 

 borders, standards or half standards, according to the 

 height of the structure, are best suited for these fruits, 

 and also for Apricots. The two first-named may be 

 grown in pots as pyramids, or as bushes, the Apricot in 

 pots being best adapted for the latter shape, or as a 

 half standard. Cherries are most important Orchard 

 House fruits, at least, if compact-growing sorts are 

 selected, and they are worked on the Mahaleb stock, 

 which induces a dwarf habit. The form of Cherry-tree 

 most eligible either for planting or pot culture, is the 

 pyramid. Plums of the finer dessert varieties are well 

 worthy of glass protection, previous to, at the time 

 of flowering, and throughout the season, in unfavour- 

 able districts. In warm parts, the trees are best to be 

 placed outside, in a sheltered position, after the fruits 

 are set. The fruits are considered superior if they can 

 be properly ripened in the open air; but, should this 

 be impracticable, the trees may be kept under glass, 

 and subjected to free ventilation. It is when the trees 

 are in flower that prospects of a crop are so frequently 

 blighted by the havoc generally resulting from frost, 

 rough weather, or a continued low temperature at that 

 season. Pears are under the same disadvantage as Plums, 

 and they succeed, under similar treatment, in Orchard 

 Houses. Trees of both are best adapted for training in 

 pyramidal form, and Pears are most fertile, and best 

 suited for pot culture, when worked on Quince stocks. 

 None but good varieties should be accommodated in an 

 Orchard House, as considerable labour is incurred in 

 potting, watering, and supplying all other requirements 

 throughout the year. Apples also come under Orchard 

 House fruits, as many of the good, yet somewhat tender, 

 varieties, have been most successfully grown under glass, 

 and the superior quality of the fruit obtained, compared 

 with that of a similar sort from outside, has been 

 favourably marked in respect of size, colouring, and 

 flavour. Apples from trees grown under glass are readily 

 distinguished, in an autumn exhibition, from all that 

 have not been so favourably situated. This tree, like 

 those last-named, succeeds in pots as a pyramid, pre- 

 ferably on the Paradise stock. Figs are sometimes 

 included in Orchard House fruits ; but they are best 

 if provided with a higher mean temperature, and a 

 house or compartment to themselves. A tree which 

 should, if possible, be accorded a place along with 

 Apricots, Peaches, &c., is the Mulberry. A good-sized 

 standard of this in a tub will occupy but little space, 

 and it will fruit abundantly, and the produce be far 

 superior to any usually procured from the open air. 

 Judicious summer pinching is most important in the 

 training of Orchard House trees in pots, or of those 

 planted out. Cordons are sometimes very useful, where 

 space is limited, as excellent fruits are frequently ob- 

 tained from trees of that form. Maiden trees can only 

 properly be trained into the desired shape by peopie 

 somewhat experienced in the art ; yet sufficient know- 

 ledge may FOOU be obtained, by practice and observation, 

 to supply all the attention necessary for preserving a 

 fairly even balance afterwards. Summer pinching of the 

 leading shoots may be practised twice, or even three 

 times, in a year, to induce a compact habit. Cordon 



