510 



THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 



Strawberry continued. 



plants arc never certain to succeed. It may best be 

 done, if requisite, in early autumn, or just before growth 

 commences in spring. 



Runners afford the best and most general method of 

 propagation. They readily root into the ground, unless it 

 is very hard, and may be lifted with balls and replanted ; 

 but a better way is that of layering in small pots of 

 loamy soil, and allowing them to root into it. Eunners 

 are entirely supported by the parent until they form 

 roots of their own; this they do readily, when coming 

 in contact with soil that is of a proper description 

 regarding moisture, &c. If pots cannot be spared, run- 

 ners for planting-out may be procured, well rooted, and 

 in good condition for lifting, by loosening the earth and 

 placing some light, leafy soil beneath them, just when 

 the roots begin forming. The method of layering on 

 pots will be further mentioned in relation to the 

 methods of preparing plants for forcing. 



Soil, Planting, ffc. Strawberries grow very well in 

 almost any good garden ground, but succeed best in 

 rather strong loam, of a good depth, and in a somewhat 

 moist situation. In a dry summer, the crop frequently 

 proves a failure on plants subjected to a light soil or 

 gravelly sub-soil, as, if nagging is once allowed, the 

 fruits seldom ripen properly. Previous to planting, the 

 ground should be well trenched, and plenty of good 

 manure intermixed. Very stiff soils are not suitable, 

 as they are so liable to cake into hard lumps, which crack 

 open during dry weather. Stiff soils may be much im- 

 proved by adding rotten leaves, peat, or leaf mould, 

 during the trenching process. 



Planting is best performed about the middle of August, 

 or so soon as well-rooted runners can be secured. Some 

 persons layer Strawberries very successfully for planting 

 purposes on small pieces of turf of square or triangular 

 shape, lin. or more thick : the roots do not then become 

 twisted and interlaced, as they do in pots, and a piece 

 of turf is admirably adapted 'for them to enter and per- 

 meate. The turf may be sunk a little into the ground, 

 and kept watered; in transplanting, they should be 

 be carefully lifted with a trowel. It is not always con- 

 venient to prepare land for Strawberries at the season 

 above named ; but it is of great importance that the 

 young plants should be put into their permanent quarters 

 early, and receive every encouragement to get them 

 established before winter. That showery weather should 

 be selected, if possible, need scarcely be remarked. Land 

 which has been occupied by early Potatoes or Cauliflowers 

 is not unfrequently in good order for planting with 

 Strawberries without any preparation beyond levelling 

 down, providing the soil is sufficiently heavy, and the 

 situation can be spared. Strawberry-plants that have 

 been forced are available for forming an outside planta- 

 tion when the fruit has been gathered; but the balls 

 should be thoroughly soaked in water, and the leaves 

 dipped in a soft-soap solution if they are infested with 

 Bed Spider which is sometimes hurtful to such plants 

 before being put into the ground. When planting Straw- 

 berries, the soil, which should be moderately moist, 

 must be rendered quite firm about their roots. Should 

 the weather be dry, watering must be attended to 

 until the plants are thoroughly established ; they will 

 need but little further attention for the season. The 

 distance at which to plant varies a little, according 

 to the strength of soil and the varieties. Generally, 

 the rows should be from 2ft. to 2ift. apart, and the 

 plants about IJft. asunder in the rows ; but small- 

 fruited varieties (Black Prince and the Alpines, for 

 instance) may be planted much closer together. The 

 soil should never be dug between Strawberry-plants, as 

 there are so many roots near the surface, which would 

 be destroyed. Large weeds may be pulled occasionally 

 by the hand and carried away, to prevent seeds dropping. 



Strawberry continued. 



Strawberry plantations should be partially renewed every 

 year, as young plants produce larger, and in every way 

 superior, fruit to old ones. Three, or at the most four, 

 years is a limit ; when plants have been in one situation 

 for this period, it is best to destroy them, provided others 

 are coming on for a succession. The general treatment 

 of Strawberries outside may be briefly summed up: To 

 keep the fruit clean, the spaces between all fruiting 

 plants should be mulched with short straw or light, clean 

 litter, in May or June, just before the flowers open. For 

 providing nourishment to the roots, a mulching of short, 

 rotten manure may be spread over the surface first, and 

 then the straw above. If runners are not required, they 

 should be cut off at intervals, soon after being formed, 

 unless the parents are disposed to grow too strongly to 

 leaf, when some of the earliest may be left. At the 

 latter part of summer, and early in autumn, considerable 

 growth is made, and another mulching of good manure 

 is generally of great advantage. A full crop must not 

 be expected the following year from young plants ; but, 

 if they are put in early, a few nice fruits are generally 

 produced, and also excellent runners for layering to 

 force. Strawberries two and three years old bear the 

 heaviest crops of good fruits. Watering is sometimes 

 a necessity when the fruits are swelling, if droughts 

 prevail or the soil is too light. A good soaking should 

 be administered; a little on the surface is useless. A 

 mulching of manure beneath the straw, as referred to 

 above, helps to keep the ground cool in summer, and 

 prevents, to a great extent, undue evaporation. 



Forcing. Before successful forcing of Strawberries 

 can be carried out, it is necessary that strong and well- 

 ripened plants be prepared; this latter subject may, 

 therefore, be referred to at the commencement. So soon 

 as any runners appear, and forcing is intended, layering 

 should be at once commenced. Perhaps the plan most 

 generally adopted is that of layering first on small pots, 

 and then transferring to the sizes in which the plants 

 are intended to bear afterwards. This system is widely 

 practised, more generally, perhaps, than any other ; but 

 that here recommended is to layer, whenever practicable, 

 on the fruiting pots in the first instance. This entails 

 more labour at the outset, but the necessity for a second 

 potting is avoided. Both methods may be referred to, 

 as some cultivators favour one and some the other. 



For layering on small pots, the size known as 60s 

 are best adapted. They should be washed clean, 

 and then allowed to get dry ; no crocks need be used, 

 a little rough fibre from the loam placed in the bottom 

 will afford ample drainage, the remainder being filled 

 with loamy soil, pressed moderately firm. Strawberries 

 for forcing should always be raised from the strongest 

 runners procurable; these are invariably borne earliest 

 in the season, and by plants one or two years old. A 

 single plant is quite sufficient for one pot ; it should be 

 placed in the centre, just as roots are forming, and made 

 secure by a peg, the runner being then pinched off just 

 beyond the plant that is layered. Pegs made from 

 stems of common Brake Fern answer well, as they are 

 not required to last long. The runners take root quickly 

 if the soil is kept moist, and soon become sufficiently 

 established for detaching from the parent, and taking 

 away previous to potting on for fruiting. It is im- 

 portant to leave them until well rooted ; the check 

 consequent on throwing the plant on its own resources 

 in this respect, is then but little felt ; whereas, if there 

 are only a few short roots formed, the leaves often flag, 

 and the plants are slow in recovering strength. 



The customary method of proceeding with Strawberries 

 layered on small pots is as follows: When strong roots 

 have fairly permeated the soil, the plants are cut off, 

 taken away, and either stood in some open situation for 

 a few days previous to potting, or potted on at once. 



