CAMPING IN A GALE 123 



break in order to get well ahead before the usual 

 south wind began blowing, oars affording us but a 

 slow advance. We accordingly camped in a regular 

 gale. In the afternoon we attempted trolling along 

 the shore of the bay, but salmon seemed quite in- 

 different to the spoon-bait. 



Next day we were on the move before sunrise, and 

 embarked at four a.m. The water was perfectly 

 smooth, and the rose-capped cones of the volcanoes 

 already shone bright against the clear morning sky. 

 As we neared the entrance of the bay the swell from 

 the ocean grew stronger and stronger, and the waves, 

 following each other in rhythmical procession, threat- 

 ened to swamp us every moment. Our nutshells, 

 though a few yards apart, would disappear for a few 

 seconds in the deep, watery gully and rise again to 

 the top of the next billow, ascending its slope almost 

 perpendicularly. The moving line of the sea in front 

 of us grew gradually higher, and we could see at 

 times these hui>e masses of water dashino- against the 

 precipitous crags of the coast, covering them with 

 snow-white foam. Fortunately for us, they did not 

 break on their way, for we should have inevitably 

 capsized. The Admiral deemed it prudent to turn 

 back, this difficult maneeuvre being carried out with 

 great skill and some danger. Again we steered towards 



